Nail technicians in Britain will face strict restrictions on the use of gel polishes containing toxic TPO from Sunday.
Trimethylbenzoyldiphenylphosphine oxide (TPO) is an ingredient that helps gel nail polish harden under UV light.
But behind the glossy finish lies a more sinister reality. Gel manicures can cost women their money fertility.
From September last year, the sale and use of the chemical was banned in the EU after it was classified as a ‘reproductive toxin’.
Now British manufacturers will be banned from marketing new products containing TPO.
Following this ban, nail technicians will no longer be able to purchase products containing TPO after February 14, 2027.
However, after this date, they may still use the products they have already purchased.
Retailers will also be banned from selling at-home gel manicure kits that contain the toxic ingredient.
British manufacturers cannot bring new products containing TPO to market
‘TPO is banned in cosmetic products because of its dangerous properties, i.e. how a substance might behave in the worst case scenario, when our bodies are exposed to a very large amount,’ says Caroline Rainsford, scientific director of the Cosmetic Toiletry & Perfumery Association.
So how safe is a gel manicure and what can you do to protect yourself?
Firstly, an important distinction to make is that the TPO ban does not ban gel manicures, but only polishes that contain the toxic ingredient, with many salons already opting for TPO-free polishes.
The EU called for a ban on TPO following animal studies showing that rats given repeated high doses of the toxin caused significant fertility problems.
And it is believed that TPO may pose a potential risk to humans, as an endocrine disruptor, disrupting the body’s hormones.
While a monthly manicure is unlikely to result in significant exposure to TPO, experts say nail technicians may be at greater risk because they handle uncured gel products for extended periods of time, putting them in more frequent contact with the chemical, although it is unlikely to be absorbed directly into the bloodstream.
The endocrine or hormonal system is the body’s messaging system. The thyroid and reproductive glands, including the ovaries and testes, release hormones that instruct the organs how to behave.
Animal studies have shown that endocrine disrupting chemicals, such as TPO, mimic natural hormones, blocking receptors and altering hormone production.
This can increase the risk of diabetes, obesity, developmental problems and cancer. Experts say they may also be behind the rise of incurable reproductive disorders.
For example, cases of endometriosis – where cells similar to those in the uterine lining grow in other parts of the body – have risen from around 3.4 million worldwide in 1990 to a shocking 190 million today.
Meanwhile, the number of women with polyendocrine metabolic ovary syndrome (PMOS) – a hormonal disorder that causes irregular periods, weight gain and excessive body hair – has doubled in Britain alone in the past two decades.
In 2012, the World Health Organization declared endocrine disruptors a “global threat.” Since then, a number of chemicals believed to affect the hormonal system have been banned by regulatory authorities around the world.
But experts believe chemicals still used in popular cosmetic products such as perfumes could have a subtle effect on the body, The Mail on Sunday reported earlier this year.
‘Our hormones are crucial to our health – they control everything in the body, from our reproductive system to our metabolism, our sleep patterns and our weight,’ says Chloe Topping, senior UK campaigner at The Chem Trust.
‘There is increasing scientific evidence that some of these chemicals can disrupt our hormonal system. But regulations are not keeping up with science. Britain is significantly behind the rest of Europe when it comes to controlling these substances.’
One of the best ways to avoid these chemicals, experts say, is to avoid products containing TPO – opting for nail polishes, including The Manucurist and Townhouse’s own range – and perfumed products, unless the brand specifically states that it is phthalate-free.
