If you prefer a gel manicure, recent reports will no doubt have made for some great reading.
Earlier this month, a ban on a commonly used type of gel polish came into effect in Britain after research linked the product to fertility problems.
The concerns concern a chemical used to harden nail polish under UV light, which has been banned in the EU since September.
Now products manufactured in Britain will be banned from containing the chemical Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO). And from early next year, salons using polishes containing it could be prosecuted.
The legislation has sparked an online debate about the safety of gel manicures and other popular nail treatments.
It’s no wonder. Nail treatments are the most popular of all beauty therapies in Britain, with Brits spending around £160 million on luxury every year.
So should we all say goodbye to gel manicures – and are other popular nail treatments better?
Here experts reveal what is safest; gel, acrylic, BIAB or the new-fangled Japanese manicure that is taking the beauty world by storm…
British manufacturers cannot bring new products containing TPO to market
Gel: the salon product that is as good as your nail technician
Gel manicures remain one of the most popular nail treatments in Britain and are prized for their chip-resistant, glossy finish that lasts for weeks.
There are two main types: shellac and pure gel. The former is a hybrid paint with about half the lifespan of the latter.
Before the nail polish is applied, the nails are lightly buffed to help the product adhere to the nail surface, before being cured under a UV lamp.
During removal, the nail is then soaked in acetone and the nail polish is scraped away.
Unlike traditional polish, gel products contain chemicals known as acrylates that harden when exposed to UV or LED light. Until recently, some formulations also contained TPO, an ingredient used to initiate this hardening process.
The chemical is now banned in Britain and the EU after it was deemed potentially harmful to fertility.
The move follows a series of studies showing that rats exposed to TPO developed significant reproductive problems.
Furthermore, research has suggested that TPO could act as one of several so-called ‘endocrine disruptors’ in the modern environment – defined as a substance that disrupts hormones.
The World Health Organization classifies endocrine disruptors as a “global threat” because some studies have linked high exposure to these chemicals to an increased risk of diabetes, developmental problems and some cancers.
However, experts emphasize that this does not mean gel manicures themselves are unsafe, as many manufacturers and salons are already switching to TPO-free alternatives.
Nail technicians are advised to wear masks while working as they are also exposed to higher levels of chemicals linked to cancer
In fact, the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) says that all cosmetic nail products sold in Britain must meet strict safety regulations and undergo extensive assessment before being released onto the market.
But according to nail experts, the biggest risk to nail health often comes not from the gel itself, but from the way it is applied and removed.
“Any form of excessive polishing will damage the nail,” says Donia Chrifi, the founder of natural nail care brand SWANKY.
“If you get your nails filed aggressively every time you go to the salon, you will see that damage over time.”
Dermatologists have also raised concerns about allergies related to acrylates, chemicals commonly used in gel nail products.
In a small number of people, uncured gel that comes into contact with the skin can cause an allergic reaction. Once developed, these allergies can be permanent.
There are also concerns about the UV lamps used to harden gel polish.
A 2023 study found that the radiation emitted by the lights could damage skin cells, laboratory studies found, sparking fears of a possible cancer risk.
However, experts say the findings should be interpreted with caution and that the real risk to salon goers is likely small.
The UV exposure from occasional gel manicures is significantly lower than the cumulative exposure most people receive from the sun over time, which remains the leading cause of skin cancer.
For those who remain concerned, some dermatologists recommend applying sunscreen to the back of the hand before a gel appointment.
BIAB is not as good for your nails as you might think
BIAB, also known as building gel in a bottle, was marketed as the softer sister of acrylic.
The thick gel coating acts as a protective shell and helps people grow longer nails by protecting them from daily knocks and breakage.
The fabric contains extra molecules called oligomers, which provide thickness and strength while remaining flexible.
But while BIAB can make nails appear stronger, experts say it doesn’t necessarily improve the health of the natural nail underneath.
“This is one of the biggest myths in the nail world,” says Chrifi.
‘Your natural nails grow under BIAB because you have a thick layer of builder gel that protects them from breaking.
“But it won’t miraculously restore the strength of your natural nails.”
She added that although BIAB is generally considered a gentler option than acrylic, repeated application and removal can still leave nails just as brittle.
‘When BIAB is removed, especially if the nails have been repeatedly over-filed or the product has been removed aggressively, the natural nails underneath may feel thinner, weaker or more likely to break.’
Acrylic: The toughest manicures are often the toughest
Acrylic nails are made by mixing a liquid and powder to form an acrylic substance – which is often applied over a plastic tip glued to the natural nail to add extension.
The result is one of the most long-lasting manicure finishes available, with a fresh set that will last for several weeks.
But although the CTPA claims that all nail products in the UK are subject to strict safety checks, meaning they must not cause significant damage, removing acrylic can cause long-term damage.
Repeated application and removal can gradually remove keratin, the protein that gives nails their strength and structure.
“Acrylic is great in terms of durability, but requires the most intervention on the natural nail,” says Chrifi.
If you leave acrylic paint on for too long, you also risk trapping moisture underneath, experts warn, creating a breeding ground for bacteria.
Although infections are relatively minor, they can develop into something more serious if left untreated, requiring nail removal.
The Princess of Wales’s affinity for barely-there, natural manicures is well documented and reminiscent of the popular Japanese manicure
Give your nails a break with a Japanese manicure
The Japanese manicure has quietly built a cult following for its natural, low-maintenance approach to nail care.
This treatment is a no-polish manicure that gives the nails a natural shine – and free from chemicals.
This involves polishing the nails with a mineral-rich paste, often made from algae, followed by a beeswax powder to give the nail a desirable glossy finish.
Proponents say it also has a restorative effect.
“Obviously, the more natural something is, the better it is for your nails,” Chrifi said.
For this reason, Chrifi considers Japanese manicures to be the healthiest option for people looking to restore nail health.
‘A Japanese manicure is a highly nourishing treatment that focuses entirely on the natural nail, using products worked into the nail plate to help condition it and improve its appearance.
‘If you’re giving your nails a “break,” it’s actually more important to get regular manicures to protect and restore your natural nails.
‘Many people don’t do this – and often talk about letting their nails ‘breathe’, but nails don’t breathe.
‘What they really need is gentle care, hydration and time to grow healthy, new nails.’
CTPA experts agree.
‘The visible part of the nail is formed from dead cells and therefore does not need to ‘breathe’ or be exposed to the air to remain healthy.
‘But improper application or removal of gel manicures, as well as excessive filing, can potentially cause damage to the surface. In these cases, the nails should be given a break to help them maintain their natural strength and prevent thinning or weakening.’
What does the TPO ban mean for me?
The TPO ban does not prohibit gel manicures.
‘A major misconception about cosmetic products is that they contain ingredients that are toxic or dangerous, says Caroline Rainsford, director of the CTPA.
‘This is absolutely not the case, and UK and European cosmetics regulations are there to ensure that no ingredients in cosmetic products can harm us.’
Experts say TPO-free products are typically free of fragrances and chemicals called phthalates. Customers can look for labels that say this on polishes.
‘Avoid getting the product on the skin, use the correct lamp to fully harden gel nails and ensure that any remaining product is carefully removed to avoid skin contact,’ Rainsford advises.
‘Do not use products labeled ‘for professionals only’ at home.’
