Ralph Lauren goes minimal for latest fashion show, with muted tones and a more intimate setting

NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren has been known for many major fashion shows over the years: taking over Central Park for an elaborate anniversary party, for example, or staging a runway show amid its dazzling collection of classic cars.

But for his Fall/Holiday 2024 collection, he decided to go minimalist — at least minimal in Ralph Lauren terms. That meant an intimate show Monday night in a (relatively) small design studio at his New York City office, inspired by his first women’s fashion show in 1972, where he showcased his wares to editors and friends in his own office.

In front of a typically star-studded front row of actors Glenn Close, Jessica Chastain, Kerry Washington, Rebecca Hall and Jodie Turner-Smith, Lauren opened his show on a note of timelessness – his longtime ethos – with the appearance of muse and supermodel Christy. Turlington, now 55, in a sleek beige wool coat.

What followed was a series of designs in soothing neutral tones: tan, tan, gray, black and metallics. The soft palette featured both daywear, such as tailored jackets and sweaters with trousers, and evening wear, such as flowing sequined dresses. There were roomy sweaters, lots of boots and wide leather belts with ‘RL’ buckles.

There were Lauren’s familiar Western accents, such as long fringes on jackets and jacket sleeves. And especially the occasional cowboy hat, which belonged not only to casual ensembles but, to end the show with a memorable look, a backless evening dress in sparkling gold.

Lauren, 84, made a brief appearance at the end in distressed jeans to cheers from the audience, which included Vogue editor Anna Wintour.

Close wore a white Lauren pantsuit. “This is a very, very special suit,” said the actor. “It was made just for me. Custom. Five years ago. I won a SAG award with it. So here I am. It looks just as beautiful. It’s a shame to wear something like that just once. ”

Close added that when he was growing up in New England, “the mentality was, you buy something that’s good quality and then you wear it until it’s worn out. That’s how I was raised.”

After the show, guests walked a few blocks further to Lauren’s Polo Bar restaurant, where the designer was once again cheered as he entered — before tucking into one of his restaurant’s signature burgers.

Lauren’s son, David, an executive at the label, discussed the task of creating new designs each season. “You know, everything changes,” he said. “You’re always looking at new fabrics and you’re looking at new silhouettes, and you’re looking at new ways to bring the brand to life. But there is a philosophy. There is a style.”

With Wintour’s Met Gala coming up in exactly a week, David Lauren was asked if the label would dress stars. “Not this year,” he said. “We’ve been so involved over the years, but this year we have a fashion show and we’re about to outfit team USA (for the Paris Olympics) and do a men’s presentation in Milan. So our plate is full.”