Istanbul is as colossal as it is bewildering, and remains as enchanting today as it was under Emperor Constantine and in the subsequent Ottoman heyday.
For the savvy traveller, the city’s appeal is strong, with the pound strong against the Turkish lira – up 25 per cent from a year ago. A long weekend on the Bosphorus is a cultural treat – and a bargain.
Where to stay
Sokullu Pasa
Tucked away in a cobbled alley in the Sultanahmet district, just a five-minute walk from the Hippodrome, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, this beautiful old townhouse offers excellent value for money, with rooms decorated with fluttering kaftans, wrought-iron lampshades and a colossal buffet breakfast taken in the small garden shaded by lemon trees. Double rooms from £65 B&B (sokullupasahotel.com).
Rob Crossan shares his guide to Istanbul for under £100 a night – exploring the unique city in Turkey that straddles both Europe and Asia
Empress Zoe
The ‘small double’ rooms are indeed very small, but decorated with beautiful bright textiles and prints. Zoe (named after a former regent) consists of two former townhouses and part of a 15th-century hammam. The garden with palm trees and yuccas is a peaceful spot for breakfast, and most of Sultanahmet’s main sights are within a 20-minute walk. Double rooms from £78 B&B (emzoe.com).
Hotel Nijlen
From the Marmora marble to the Iznik tiles to the green roof garden, this is a class act with a Bosphorus-meets-Bordeaux vibe. The breakfasts are a super generous spread of yoghurts, cheeses and borek [filled pastries] and there’s even free cake in the lobby in the afternoon. Double rooms from £97 B&B (hotelniles.com).
Ibrahim Pasha
Surrounded by the city’s major attractions, Hotel Ibrahim Pasha offers views of ‘both sides of the Bosphorus and Hagia Sophia (above)’, says Rob
The view from the roof terrace of this small hotel, a few minutes’ walk from Topkapi Palace and the Turkish and Islamic Art Museum, is a cracker, with views of both sides of the Bosphorus and the Hagia Sophia. Step inside after dark and there’s a sitting room crammed with books about the city, collected by the owner. The rooms are sleek affairs, decorated with dark-wood Venetian blinds and some well-chosen Turkish rugs. Double rooms from £86 B&B (ibrahimpasha.com).
What to see and do
Ferry across the Bosphorus
Take a ferry from Eminonu Docks on the European side of the Bosphorus to Uskudar Docks on the Asian side. It’s a convenient way to get around, but also a great way to see the city from the water, especially at sunset. Fares start from 40p. See ‘How to use Istanbul ferries’ on istanbulvacationtips.com.
Cinili Hamam
Hamam visits on the west side of Istanbul are often overpriced and mainly aimed at tourists.
For a real taste of how the locals indulge in this age-old pastime, head to the Asian coastline and the modest, terracotta-coloured Cinili Hamam. Dating back to 1640, there are separate entrances for men and women, where towels are provided. Choose between ‘self-service’ or having an attendant, armed with a mitt, scrub your skin before you lie down on the huge marble slabs in the ‘hararet’ steam room (cinilihamam.com£15).
Blue Mosque
The Blue Mosque can be seen here and is ‘magnificent as an example of the most grandiose Ottoman imperial architecture’, says Rob
From January, the Hagia Sophia Mosque will have a whopping £22 entrance fee for all non-Muslim foreign visitors. Thankfully, the nearby Blue Mosque is still free and is every bit as beautiful as an example of Ottoman imperial architecture at its most magnificent.
The mosque was built between 1609 and 1617 by order of Sultan Ahmed I. The magnificent Isnik tiles inside give the mosque its famous nickname (Binbirdirek, At Meydanı Cd, no. 10, free admission).
Cistern of the Basilica of Jerebatan
Basilica Cistern (above) featured in the James Bond film From Russia with Love – now visitors can explore it via walkways that run over its 336 columns
When Sean Connery visited From Russia With Love, Emperor Constantine’s vast underwater vault could only be rowed across. Now there are walkways that crisscross the 336 columns, bathed in softly changing colored lights (yerebatan.com/en£15).
Where to eat
Khanate
The best value for money in Istanbul can be found at esnaf lokantasi. These are workers’ canteens where you can get simple meals at bargain prices.
There is no better example than Kanaat, on the Asian coast. Moussakas, lamb in béchamel, liver skewers and stuffed aubergine dishes all come with large baskets of bread to mop up the sauces (mains around £6, kanaatlokantasi.com.tr).
Durumcu Mehmet
For some, the search for the best kebab in Istanbul is a lifelong odyssey, but you’ll be hard-pressed to find better kebabs than the lamb, liver or chicken kebabs on offer at this tiny restaurant in the Grand Bazaar.
Head to Durumcu Mehmet in the Grand Bazaar, pictured, for the ‘best kebab in Istanbul’
‘Searching for the best kebab in Istanbul is a lifelong odyssey for some,’ says Rob. Above, a food vendor in Eminonu, Istanbul
Take a seat on the small stools among the locals, don’t be afraid to shout to be served, and feast on the bulging, packaged treats before delving back into the maze of the bazaar (mains from £3.50, Mollafenari, Kiliccilar Sk. No 35).
Café Smyrna
Located on the main street in the bohemian Beyoglu district, Smyrna is an attractive spot with terraces full of musicians and actors drinking Efes beer among the foliage and candles.
Salads, pastas and grilled meats dominate the reasonably priced menu and there’s a good chance one of the local cats will join you for a meal and a drink (mains from £9, Akarsu Yakusa, No. 29).
How to get there
BA Holidays (ba.com) offers two nights at the Sokullu Pasa hotel from £196pp including return flights from Heathrow.
BA has a dedicated Accessibility Team; see the ‘What assistance is available?’ page. Wizz Air has return flights from £83 (wizzair.com).