An unassuming ‘pandemic pop-up’ has transformed into one of Sydney’s most in-demand restaurants – and it’s easy to see why.
Hidden behind the doors of a quaint stone block in Surry Hills Warikea Peruvian fusion center that provides diners with some of the most unique, mouth-watering food in the city.
The idea of Warike (pronounced Warique), co-owned by Luis Guzman, Valeriya Finogeeva and Chef Hector Chunga, was born in 2020 when Guzman was cooking at home during the lockdown.
Now a local dining sensation, the eatery’s vibrant, homey atmosphere is inspired by Peru’s traditional ‘Warikes’: simple, hidden eateries known for their incredible food and convivial atmosphere.
With just 46 rooms, the restaurant is all about ‘authenticity and a sense of shared enjoyment’, which becomes apparent as soon as you enter and are confronted with cheerful decor, a warm service team and an impossibly appetizing menu.
An unassuming ‘pandemic pop-up’ has transformed into one of Sydney’s most in-demand restaurants – and it’s easy to see why
Now a local dining sensation, the eatery’s vibrant, homey atmosphere is inspired by Peru’s traditional ‘Warikes’: simple, hidden eateries known for their incredible food and convivial atmosphere
Notable ones include a wide variety of ceviches – the hero being the Clasico made with kingfish and mashed sweet potato – cheesy scallops made with macho sauce, melting charcoal octopus and charcoal black angus (lomo saltado).
The menu reflects the diverse mix of Peruvian cultures, especially the Incas, and imported cuisines brought in by immigrants, including Spanish, Italian, German, and Chinese. It also reflects Mediterranean techniques combined with Peruvian products.
Chunga, the chef, was born into a humble family in the north of Peru and owes his incredible talent primarily to his mother, a teacher and wider family.
“My parents are influential people in their careers, I always wanted to be like them and that they would be proud of what I do,” Chunga told FEMAIL.
“I learned to cook thanks to my mother and the attention I paid when she cooked for us, and my aunts when they cooked at a family party.
The idea of Warike (pronounced Warique), co-owned by Luis Guzman (left), Valeriya Finogeeva and chef Hector Chunga (right), came about in 2020 when Guzman was cooking at home during the lockdown
Charcoal octopus, Anticuchera sauce, cauliflower puree, Peruvian corn, chimichuri, dry olives
King fish, tiger’s milk, sweet potato puree, Peruvian corn, white corn
“Back then in cooking school I had great mentors and teachers. One of my teachers came from a Spanish restaurant with Michelin stars and another was a passionate Peruvian chef.’
Chunga moved to Lima to study gastronomy after a short period of studying to be an accountant like his father.
‘Peruvian cuisine appeared in Europe at the famous Madrid Fusion festival. I thought about it for a few days before finally making the move and later saw him work in top restaurants around the world.
Chunga later met Guzman and loved the idea of a Peruvian-Japanese-Mediterranean fusion restaurant in Sydney.
“My parents are influential people in their careers, I always wanted to be like them and that they would be proud of what I do,” Chunga told FEMAIL
“People trying Warike for the first time are surprised that Peruvian cuisine isn’t that popular in this country, but I’m confident we’re doing well. I consider myself an ambassador of Peruvian cuisine, so that’s my mission,” he said
“I helped make it different and make it a more technical restaurant – a concept that respects the product… where tradition is served in a different way and where the visual is important, but history prevails” , he said.
“People trying Warike for the first time are surprised that Peruvian cuisine isn’t that popular in this country, but I’m confident we’re doing well. I consider myself an ambassador of Peruvian cuisine, so that’s my mission.’
He added: ‘Hospitality isn’t just an industry or a business, it’s much more than that and that’s what I’m learning in my team. We take responsibility for the happiness of all our guests who dine with us.’
Busy and buzzing with energy every night, Warike has a bright future in Sydney, with Chunga adding even more Mediterranean influences to the menu in the coming months.
“Our goal is to get a hat — we’re not far off other restaurants that already have these and we’re providing quality food and service,” he said.
‘It’s an experience to eat at Warike, we can’t please everyone, but we try. Warike is becoming one of Australia’s best Peruvian restaurants, with a lot of people coming from suburbs like Liverpool or an hour from the city, so at some point people from further afield will also be coming to eat here.
“The aim is that if Warike wants to transcend Australia, we become the pioneers in slightly changing the image of Peruvian cuisine in Sydney. The second step is that everyone wants to experience it with us.’
Warike is open Tuesday through Saturday from 5:00 PM until late and Saturday from 12:30 PM to 2:00 PM for lunch.