Why Cape Town is simply irresistible, from the delights of the ‘Wine Tram’ to kayaking with dolphins

When it comes to looks, Cape Town would take the sash in any beauty pageant – a city lapped by pristine waters, adorned with fynbos flowers and with the mighty Table Mountain kissing the clouds at its centre.

In the past few years, the eclectic city has amped up its appeal with world-class galleries, designer hotels, and boutique wineries leading the way.

Add to that the relaunch of direct flights from London and South Africa’s hippest city, an irresistible prospect for a break. Here’s how to explore it.

A mountain of culture and a beautiful waterfront

There’s something strange in the water. Beneath my kayak, the kelp leaves sway in a balletic dance, the sun beats down on my hat, and a few feet in front of my small vessel, what appears to be an upturned tree breaks through the ocean surface.

It moves, slowly, and then falls on its side so that I can see that it is, in fact, a giant seal. I scull forward to get a better look. He opens one eye and assesses me aimlessly, before returning to his all-important quest for relaxation.

I’m on the mirrored waters of Granger Bay taking in the sights of Cape Town from the ocean with Atlantic Outlook Adventures (atlanticoutlook.com).

We’ve already seen penguins, dolphins and sunfish, and when I look back to land, I see the city’s iconic Table Mountain centerpiece rising above it all.

If you trade in your flip-flops for trainers, you can climb one of the many trails that wind up the mountain. Or perhaps take the leisurely cable car to the top, from £10 one way (tableberg.net), to look down on this bay and its picturesque surroundings – including the ferry that sails to the famous Robben Island (robbeneiland.org.za), where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for nearly two decades; the shimmering Atlantic Ocean; and the Cape’s winding coastline buffeted by frothy surf.

Fortunately, however, you don’t have to work up a sweat to get your culture fix in Cape Town. From bohemian Long Street to the surfboards and seafood restaurants of upscale Camps Bay, an unmistakable energy buzzes through the streets.

And that is no more present than at the V&A Waterfront (waterfront.co.za) – a cool cultural center around the wharf where restaurants, boutiques and bars lure locals and tourists alike.

Here, Watershed’s craft and design market is an easy place to spend an afternoon, with more than 150 stalls selling wares from local creatives, from forward-thinking beauty brands to homemade chocolatiers and biltong makers.

Those looking for even more under-the-radar shopping should head to the vibrant enclave of Bo-Kaap – a patchwork of brightly painted Cape Dutch and Cape Georgian houses where you’ll find some of the city’s best street food, from salomie ( a curry roti wrap) to the region’s famous milk tarts and biscuit desserts.

Back on the Waterfront, the effortlessly polished One & Only Cape Town is the place to stay. As soon as I step through the doors, I am amazed by the epic view of Table Mountain, framed by a huge glass wall behind the central bar.

The hotel blends seamlessly into the waterfront itself with a wide, clear canal winding through downtown, on which fitness-minded locals kick their paddleboards and swim in the clean water. There’s also a spa and a tranquil pool lined with striped sun loungers, where the peace is disturbed only by a family of otters who come to drink.

The rooms are similarly impressive, awash in soft textures, a putty palette, and expansive mountain views. You don’t even have to leave the building to enjoy Cape Town’s finest delights. The on-site Nobu restaurant showcases the world-renowned Japanese-Peruvian fusion of Michelin-starred master chef Nobu Matsuhisa.

The hotel also hosts a wine festival every February where the country’s most exciting and experimental winemakers gather to unveil their latest products, while head sommelier Luvo Ntezo is voted the best in the world.

Cape Town has countless picturesque spots where you can enjoy stunning views with your evening meal. During my stay, I watch yachts bob gently on the wharf while shoveling amber Inverroche oysters at Harbor House (harbourhouse.co.za) on the waterfront. I also enjoy 180-degree ocean views while nibbling on braai breads – the much better South African equivalent of a grilled cheese sandwich – at Salt & Sage (saltandsage.co.za) in Bantry Bay.

Finally, I grin at the African penguin colony on Boulders Beach near Simon’s Town while sipping salted caramel ice cream from The Beach Hut (the-beach-hut-ice cream shop.business.site) flows sticky down my wrist.

Finding great food in Cape Town is no surprise, but I’m much more surprised when I come across diamonds. Shimanski (shimansky.co.za) is one of South Africa’s most highly regarded jewelers, sourcing ethically mined diamonds with a 100 percent conflict-free guarantee.

I have the chance to don overalls to handle and polish a very small diamond myself, and stroll through the museum and showroom in the Clock Tower district to marvel at the gems in their cases, learn how they are cut and graded and the intriguing history of the gleaming stones.

Cool off in the Cotswolds of South Africa

Think of Franschhoek as the Cotswolds of the Western Cape: pretty chocolate box, filled with boutique producers and well-heeled mini-breakers, and surrounded by beautiful natural scenery.

Just under an hour’s drive from Cape Town, it’s the ideal combination for a stay in the city – a place to slow down and enjoy the ancient vineyards, flower meadows and Cape Dutch architecture.

Franschhoek translates as French Corner, commemorating the Huguenots who were granted land here in the 17th century when they fled persecution in France. It is also the smaller, slightly more refined sister of Stellenbosch, the Cape’s other well-known wine region.

The elegant Mont Rochelle, owned by Sir Richard Branson, is one of the most beautiful places to stay here. With 26 rooms in three chic buildings, it sits on a hill overlooking the charming town and was built as a farmhouse in the 19th century.

When I arrive, the Cape Doctor – the term locals use for the strong winds in the province – is swinging at full blast and the bright agapanthus is rocking the fur of the farm’s limp house cat, Blom.

The place is nothing short of idyllic and there’s plenty of fun to be had in these parts, especially in the form of the historic wine tram that winds its way through the willows and vineyards, stopping at wine farms for leisurely tastings.

In the 19th century, this line brought meat and fresh produce to all farms in the area. Now it is possible to visit six in a day, but we only make it to two. Most impressive is the Grande Provence Heritage Wine Estate (grandeprovence.co.za), voted one of the 100 best vineyards in the world.

There is a fine-dining restaurant where we feast on Franschhoek trout and sous vide lamb, while critically tasting their exquisite GP MCC Brut, Angels Tears rosé and cabernet sauvignon.

Back on Mont Rochelle, head winemaker Michael Langenhoven explains how everything is hand-picked on the farm, using 15,000 tons of grapes each week to make their semillon, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and syrah. The juice is already fermenting for the sparkling wine they plan to produce next year.

As we finish our glasses, the moon emerges – a clean, polished slab that seems to balance perfectly on the mountaintop.

We take it as our cue to pop in for tofu gnocchi and devilish chocolate cake at the cozy Country Kitchen restaurant.

We raise another glass to these winelands and the farmers who first practiced their trade here hundreds of years ago.