Glitz and glamor dominated the start of Melbourne’s Spring Racing Carnival, and as thousands of punters flocked to Flemington Racecourse this weekend, many asked about a particular blonde.
One chic attendee made the black-and-white Derby Day theme their own by fusing the high-fashion world of the races with a TikTok- and catwalk-certified micro-trend.
Emily Gurr rode to Derby Day in a chic take on the cowgirl aesthetic that left the expensive looks of many celebrity attendees in the dust.
The cowboy and cowgirl aesthetic has been trending since March, when Taylor Swift kicked off her seemingly endless Eras Tour.
While the Western wardrobe look never really went away, the ‘Swift Lift’ brought the humble cowboy boot and hat into the mainstream in a whole new way.
But it’s a trend that’s easier said than done.
With plentiful design options and colorways for hat, boots and collared shirt combinations, there’s a fine line between looking fashionable and intentional and looking like you’re late to a Halloween party.
So who is Emily, and how did she bend racing’s famously strict fashion rules without breaking them?
Emily Gurr rode to Derby Day in a chic take on the cowgirl aesthetic that left the expensive looks of many celebrity attendees in the dust
Emily Gurr is a model and creative director with quite a significant social media following.
On Saturday, she wore a black Armani suit paired with knee-high Jimmy Choo riding boots, a black and gold bolo tie and carried a black leather Miu Miu bag.
The pièce de résistance, however, was a custom cowgirl hat by Australian milliner Nerida Winter.
The respected racingwear designer created a half-dozen headpieces for the Derby Day event, but proudly posted three photos of her work with Emily on the grid.
“The moment when one iconic woman meets another,” Winter captioned one, also writing, “So in love with Emily Gurr who rocks the perfect blend of masculine and feminine energy.”
Emily left her blonde locks open for the occasion and wore a full face of glamorous make-up, while also unbuttoning the bottom half of her shirt to show off her midriff.
Emily wore a black Armani suit paired with knee-high Jimmy Choo riding boots, a black and gold bolo tie and carried a black leather Miu Miu bag
In a recent interview with fashion book Harper’s Bazaar, the model turned businesswoman said opening the Beverly Rooftop bar in Melbourne “was so much fun.”
‘It took a lot of blood, sweat and tears, but it took me out of my comfort zone.’
The Sydney-born model has 108,000 followers on Instagram, where she often shares her ’70s-inspired yet modernized ensembles.
She lives between Harbor City and Australia’s cultural capital, where she currently oversees the Californian-themed cocktail bar overlooking the Melbourne skyline.
The pièce de résistance, however, was a custom cowgirl hat by Australian milliner Nerida Winter
Emily (centre) pictured on Derby Day with TV personality Saskia Wotton
The origins of Derby Day’s black and white custom are disputed, but it remains one of the strictest dress codes of any racing season.
One of the most popular theories is that the Earl of Derby’s horse turned up across the pond more than two centuries ago in 1787 and won the race wearing black and white colours.
Others believe the theme began in 1910 when King Edward died, and in true Edwardian fashion, racegoers swapped their best clothes for mourning clothes.
It is also possible that an advertisement in Australian Women’s Weekly, circa 1960, started the tonal dress code.
In partnership with whiskey manufacturer James Buchanan and Co and to celebrate Black & White whisky, Melbourne Cup entrants were given the chance to win a £200 wardrobe prize (the equivalent of over $7000 today) for the person with the best outfit on the market. field.
However, there was a catch: the participants had to dress in black and white.
Modernizing or bending traditional race day dress rules is a fraught process.
It could mean taking home the fashion prize and bragging rights, or just as easily being denied entry because you are considered wearing ‘inappropriate’ clothing.
Take it from British model Jean Shrimpton, who infamously wore a scandalous (by 1960s standards) mini DuPont dress for Derby Day.
Her hem was 5 inches above the knee, shockingly without stockings, gloves and hat.
The move was considered scandalous at the time, although the model said she did not.see what was wrong with the way I looked’.
“I feel like Melbourne isn’t ready for me yet,” she added. ‘It seems years behind London.’
This year alone, fashion marketplace Depop saw a 15 percent increase in the number of users searching for ‘Western’ items.
That means cowboy and cowgirl boots, hats with wide brims, fringes and lots of leather.