Small bikinis for big bottoms, bold rather than twee florals and shorter shorts (but no knicker-grazers). Here are the… Midsize summer style rules

If, like me, you are a middle-aged woman with a medium-sized body (I’m 14-16), you may be approaching the summer months with a familiar sense of dread.

Clothing to cover up is put away; those who reveal much more come out. But fear not, here are the tips I’ve learned in my twenty years as a fashion editor to ensure your wardrobe flatters and suits your figure, whatever the weather.

Hems should touch the knee

Shift dress, £59, whitestuff.com

It may be leg season, but you should carefully consider the length of your skirts. There is a suggestion that, after several years of long maxis, the hems will be shorter this season.

While I wore tunics in my twenties and thirties, the same shape, but just above the knee, feels about right now.

For my fellow midlife dressers, I would recommend sneakers or a ballerina instead of a heel of this length. Heels can make you feel like you’re trying too hard.

I love Jigsaw’s smocked linen dress in coral, which also gives a nod to this season’s love of the red palette.

Then ignore the XL label

Top, £65, monsoon.co.uk

Top, £65, monsoon.co.uk

Think about the shape of the clothes on your body, not the size on the label.

We all know that there are no standard sizes for clothing manufacturers. Take me: I’m an XL in every French high street brand, but a 14 in M&S.

So try different sizes and, when in doubt, always buy a larger one, ignoring the inner voice that tells you you can’t possibly be that size, because there’s nothing more flattering than clothes that are too tight.

Swinging ruffles and pleats. They only add volume, and usually where women want them least: on hips and shoulders.

Don’t be afraid of a small bikini

Triangle top, £15.99, and Brazilian bottoms, £9.99, hm.com

Triangle top, £15.99, and Brazilian bottoms, £9.99, hm.com

I’m shaped like an apple, with no butt and a decent tummy, so I opt for the coverage of a tankini.

But believe it or not, a bikini looks fantastic with nice big bottoms! It’s actually flattering to have less fabric, so resist the urge to go for big pants.

If you have larger breasts, a halter neck offers the best shape and support, whether with a swimsuit or a bikini.

M&S has a brilliant selection, and I particularly love the Tummy Control Halterneck Swimsuit in dark red and white.

Supersize your prints

Floral midi dress, £79, liveunlimitedlondon.com

Floral midi dress, £79, liveunlimitedlondon.com

After several years of channeling Laura Ingalls Wilder in her Little House On The Prairie, it’s time to say goodbye to ditsy floral dresses.

While there’s nothing wrong with sticking to those longer, body-length lengths, bold prints and polka dots feel more modern this season – plus they look great at any size.

Try Whistles’ spot-print Imie dress or Lexy London’s honeycomb Tara dress.

Leave out the long Bermudas

Denim wash shorts, £55, nobodyschild.com

Denim wash shorts, £55, nobodyschild.com

I’m not about to tell anyone to adopt the trend of tight-fitting shorts, which are essentially underwear, but you shouldn’t go the opposite way either. Leave Bermuda shorts for real Bermuda shorts and opt for a mid-thigh length; your figure will look much more balanced with a little less material.

I pair my shorts with a loose, unlined jacket (try Toast) over a striped Breton T-shirt. If you suffer from chafing thighs, everyone from Tesco to Skims sells flexible stretch cycling shorts that are invisible under clothing.

It’s the perfect time to impress in white

Broderie cover-up dress, £98, thewhitecompany.com

Broderie cover-up dress, £98, thewhitecompany.com

If prints aren’t to your liking, minimalists should opt for COS’ white midi shirt dress and romantics should opt for Boden’s embroidered midi tea dress.

I know it’s tempting to reach for a familiar black cover-up, but where a looser black dress can look like a tent, there’s an optical illusion where a floaty white dress blends into the background.

Worn with bright lipstick, nothing feels more summery, and the white bounces slightly towards the face to give the skin a beautiful glow.

Ditch sweaty polyester and opt for cotton. Don’t forget to check transparency by standing in front of a window before purchasing.

Bra to close the back rolls

Scoop bra, £95, evelynbobbie.com

Scoop bra, £95, evelynbobbie.com

Middle-aged and mid-sized women know that the basics are essential.

In hot weather, a bra that is too tight is torture and causes unnecessary back rolling. Have yourself measured again every year to prevent bulges on your back.

Thanks to advances in bra technology, even larger cup sizes no longer require painful underwire. Try the underwire-free brand Evelyn & Bobbie, whose bras also have wide, seam-free straps.

No cap sleeves please

Fit and flare dress, £169, hobbs.com

Fit and flare dress, £169, hobbs.com

If you, like me, are among the legion of women who avoid sleeveless tops, make sure you avoid cap sleeves, which cut off your arm in exactly the wrong place – where it’s fullest.

Look for flutter sleeves, raglan sleeves or super-flattering bracelet-length sleeves that end just below the elbow.