I have been a facialist for over 45 years, which means I have spent my entire working life in the professional beauty industry. I’ve seen endless self-inflicted skin damage and it’s made me a very outspoken facialist.
Most damage can be prevented if some basic rules are followed – and I always give my clients the wake-up call they need.
It’s not about being harsh or criticizing, it’s honest, realistic advice to help you get better skin for life. Start by accepting that a facial, no matter how brilliant, is not a miracle cure.
I can provide the expert knowledge and products, but long-term results come from an intelligent, committed routine at home.
That’s why Kirsti Shuba and I created our Catherine Daniels range to simplify things: you only need a two-to-three minute routine twice a day, that’s all. It’s not too much to ask. In the salon I am always honest about what is and is not necessary.
So allow me to give you the benefit of my forty years in the industry and tell you exactly why your skin looks older than your age.
I’ve seen endless self-inflicted skin damage and it’s made me a very outspoken facialist (stock image)
Your face is dirty
To be clear: micellar water is not a cleanser. It removes eye and other makeup, so make sure you have it in your ‘rescue kit’ for late nights, when we’re all guilty of letting routines slide. But that’s not cleansing, and a poor cleansing regimen is the main reason your skin care isn’t meeting expectations.
The Katherine Daniels Toning Lotion (£28; katherinedaniels.com) is essential
I’m also shocked at the number of women who still use facial wipes as a cleanser; they are full of nasty chemicals, drying on the skin and should be avoided at all costs.
We double cleanse during salon treatments, and you should too. Each. Single. Night. I recommend using a dish soap and mitt, plus an alcohol-free soothing toner.
Toners have gotten a bad rap over the years, but not all toners are created equal – and a non-stripping, soothing, pH-balanced toner like our Katherine Daniels Toning Lotion (£28; katherinedaniels.com) is essential.
Failure to do so leaves the door wide open for blemishes, pigmentation, and premature lines and wrinkles.
You are unfaithful
Chopping and switching products not only damages and confuses the skin, but is also a waste of money.
One of the biggest problems is using conflicting ingredients that force the skin to work in opposite ways: one can cause the skin to produce less oil, while the other can produce more.
Don’t be distracted by the latest ‘quick-fix wonder’ product. All you are doing is giving your skin mixed messages, which, just like humans, can cause it to react negatively or become oversensitive and uncomfortable.
Remember that you need to give the products at least three to four weeks (one skin regeneration cycle) to see results. Have some patience!
You ignore the cause
You should first strengthen your skin barrier function with moisturizing and nourishing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, fatty acids and ceramides (stock image)
Too many people think superficially about their skin and tackle what they don’t like rather than the cause. They often use the wrong product and make the situation worse.
Take age spots for example. It is usually at this time of year (early summer, when we wear less makeup) that people want to treat their hyperpigmentation spots. What you should do is look at preventative measures and save the curative treatments for the fall and winter.
Even then, it’s not as simple as applying the latest serum or cream.
You should first strengthen your skin barrier function (the natural defenses) with moisturizing and nourishing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, fatty acids and ceramides (and don’t forget to apply SPF as a daily armor for the skin).
Pigment spots are produced as a way for the skin to protect itself. Unless you address that, it will continue with its own self-protection techniques. Harsh products to ‘eradicate’ the spots will only make it worse.
Whatever your skin aging concerns, tackle the cause first.
You have ‘Diet Face’
Major weight loss and weight gain have serious consequences for the ‘stretching’ of our skin. This may not be visible in your 20s or early 30s, but as we get older it will lead to sagging skin. Often the ‘drooping’ of the contours of your face is more of an aging sign than wrinkles – and gives an unhappy appearance.
When you starve your body, you also starve your skin of essential nutrients. The skin needs hydration, lipids, antioxidants and nutrients to function properly.
If you are 45 years or older and want to lose weight quickly, keep in mind that you could be sacrificing a fuller and more youthful-looking complexion for a smaller dress size.
You have ‘Wine Face’
Think twice before that next glass or two of wine. Alcohol dries out the internal organs and skin.
It also depletes the body of nutrients and vitamins, especially vitamin A, which in turn reduces our collagen and elastin and our skin’s beautiful youth proteins.
In addition, alcohol turns into sugar in our body and excess sugar destroys collagen and elastin fibers, which in turn increases wrinkles.
Your skin doesn’t lie and dehydration, pronounced fine lines, dark circles, dullness, inflammation and high tanning are all signs that someone has eaten too much.
You forgot that the best anti-ager is free
When we are tired, our body produces too much cortisol and adrenaline and an overload of these has an aging effect
Getting beauty sleep is often difficult. Life happens. But a good eight hours of sleep is regenerative, and insomnia is an important factor in aging because it affects the body’s ability to produce healthy cells.
When we are tired, our body produces too much cortisol and adrenaline and an overload of these has an aging effect.
Find a way to relax before bed and your face will thank you for it, because sleep is one of the most underrated and underutilized anti-agers out there.
I tell all my clients to sleep eight hours a night, but remember: the three to four hours before 1 a.m. are the most crucial for skin repair and radiance.