Scotland’s oldest tartan dates back to the 16th Century, experts say

A piece of tartan textile dating back more than 400 years is Scotland’s oldest tartan, scientists have revealed.

Discovered in a peat bog in Glen Affric in the Scottish Highlands, the faded fabric has traces of green and brown dye and belonged to an unknown clan.

It is believed to date from the early 16th century at the earliest, possibly during the reign of James IV, James V or Mary Queen of Scots.

But experts have said the tartan was more than likely worn as an “outdoor work garment” and would not have been worn by royalty.

Although faded, the tartan is in impressive condition, largely because peat bogs are oxygen-free environments, a condition that prevents decay.

The tartan was found in the peat bog of Glen Affric about 40 years ago, but it is only now that experts have determined its age.

Dye analysis and radiocarbon testing on the woolen textile was commissioned by the Scottish Tartans Authority (STA).

“The testing process took nearly six months, but it was well worth the effort and we are delighted with the results,” said Peter MacDonald, head of research and collections at STA.

‘In Scotland, surviving examples of ancient textiles are rare because the soil is not conducive to their survival.

“Because the piece was buried in peat, meaning it wasn’t exposed to air and was therefore preserved.

“The tartan has different colors with multiple stripes of different sizes, so it corresponds to what people would see as a real tartan.”

Measuring approximately 21 inches by 17 inches (55 cm by 43 cm), the fabric has the criss-cross patterns that are still typical of tartans today.

STA identified four original colors in the tartan that have since faded: green, brown, and possibly red and yellow.

The dye analysis also confirmed the use of indigo or woad in the green, but was inconclusive for the other colors, probably because the dye had degraded.

But no artificial or semi-synthetic dyes were involved in making the tartan, leading researchers to believe it predates the 1750s.

A wide age range of between 1500 and 1655 was identified, but the period from 1500 to 1600 was most likely – making it the oldest known piece of genuine tartan discovered in Scotland.

It may have belonged to the Clan Chisholm, who controlled the area at the time, although researchers are unable to draw any firm conclusions.

“While we can theorize about the Glen Affric tartan, it’s important that we don’t construct history around it,” MacDonald said.

‘Although Clan Chisholm controlled that area, we cannot attribute the tartan to them because we do not know who owned it.

‘The possible presence of red, a color Gaels consider a status symbol, is interesting because of the more rustic nature of the fabric.

“You don’t associate this piece with a king or someone of high status, it’s more like a piece of clothing for outdoor work.”

Tartans have long been worn in the Highlands, although they were temporarily banned after the Jacobite Rising of 1745.

STA president John McLeish said the “historical significance” of the tartan probably dates back to the reigns of James V, Mary Queen of Scots or James VI and I.

James VI of Scotland became James I of England through the union of the Scottish and English crowns in March 1603.

His mother, Mary Queen of Scots, had been executed in February 1587 after 19 years of imprisonment when she was found guilty of plotting the murder of her cousin, Queen Elizabeth I.

Further research into the fabric could reveal more about the identity of the clan and how it was connected to Scotland at the time.

The artifact will be on display at Dundee’s design museum from April 1 to January 14 next year.

“Being able to exhibit the Glen Affric tartan is hugely important to understanding the textile traditions from which the modern tartan stems,” says James Wylie, curator at V&A Dundee.

“I’m sure visitors will appreciate seeing this in public for the first time.”