A new trend of fine-dining restaurants forcing customers to order expensive meals at the counter is spreading across the United States.
“Counter cuisine,” as it is sometimes called, is when diners wait in line to order their entire meal (starting with a drink) and then pay before even sitting down.
Despite skipping the step of table service, restaurant goers are still expected to leave generous tips on top of the price of the food.
While this system is common for a simple lunch spot or casual eatery at the lower end of the price scale, American restaurants have begun to use the counter method for menus where the items cost above $40 and good wine comes by the bottle (although you’ll have to bring it yourself to pour).
Despite the informal ordering system, food at these places is usually served in courses on formal plates and good cutlery.
Birdie’s in Austin, Texas, is one of the places where you can embrace the upscale dining experience and casual customer service approach to ordering (Photo: TikToker Olivia Adriance at Birdie’s)
Birdie’s in Austin, Texas, is one of the places that combines this paradoxical high-end dining experience and casual customer service.
“We consider the counter to be the first interaction in a fine-dining restaurant,” Arjav Ezekiel, co-owner and beverage director of Birdie’s, told the Wall Street Journal.
Birdie’s changes its menu frequently, but the restaurant is currently serving a minute steak for $36 and a rockfish dish for $34, both of which can be ordered at the counter.
The eatery offers a selection of small plates ranging from $14 to $24, snacks from $7 to $13 and desserts for around $14.
A glass of wine costs between $14 and $28, and Birdie’s has a huge range of bottles from around the world.
At the counter, customers typically talk for about five minutes with an employee who helps them match their food choice with the right glass of wine.
The purpose of this system is to create a personal connection between servers and diners while simultaneously delaying orders so the kitchen doesn’t become overwhelmed.
At the counter, customers typically talk for about five minutes with an employee who helps them match their choice of food with the right glass of wine (photo: TikToker Olivia Adriance at Birdie’s)
Diners also see benefits from the system. Even though they won’t be served, it means they can avoid the stress of booking a reservation, which often comes with eating at high-end restaurants.
Customers can still turn off the servers if they have a question or want to order another round of drinks.
Birdie’s opened in 2021 and management has adapted their style over the years as the business has grown.
These changes include hiring more people to roam the floor and take follow-up orders, rather than forcing patrons to wait in line again. “We’ve done more things to make people comfortable as soon as they sit down,” Ezekiel says.
Marisa Bittenc-Muramoto, 34, is a project manager who has visited Birdie’s a few times — she says she’s now used to the system and will jump in line again with her glass of wine in tow.
“You can hang out and chat a bit,” she adds. ‘It’s no different than having to take a seat at the bar.’
Some customers struggle with the tipping aspect. Megan Koppenhoefer, a 44-year-old health care administrator, said, “There’s a certain discomfort that comes with already tipping that amount without being served at a table.”
Other restaurants in major US cities have adopted similar ordering methods. John’s Food and Wine in Chicago forces customers to order at the counter, but also offers QR codes for wine or cocktail refills
Other restaurants in major US cities have adopted similar ordering methods. John’s Food and Wine in Chicago forces customers to order at the counter, but also offers QR codes for refilling wine or cocktails.
Even though you can order Hamachi crudo for $23 or duck breast for $47, the restaurant still uses the fast food style.
Adam McFarland is co-owner of the restaurant. He said the team has refined the model since it opened in 2023.
McFarland said both owners, who are also chefs, prioritize walking around the restaurant’s dining floor each evening, and dinners are served by the chefs or sommelier.
A popular eatery in Los Angeles’s Arts District also runs a similar ordering system. Diners at De La Nonna, a restaurant that does not accept reservations, are greeted by a host who leads them to their table – and then return to the front of the restaurant where orders are taken at a counter
John’s customers have mixed feelings about the unique dining experience. Coabi Kastan said she was worried at first, but now she visits weekly and finds the method especially useful when she wants to enjoy good food but can’t be bothered to make a reservation.
Mariana Suarez said ordering tasty fancy food at the counter makes her feel rushed and she would rather think about the menu. “You don’t necessarily have time for that,” said the 24-year-old Suarez.
A popular eatery in Los Angeles’s Arts District also runs on a similar system.
Diners at De La Nonna, a restaurant that does not accept reservations, are greeted by a host who leads them to their table — and then return to the front of the restaurant where orders are taken at a counter.
De La Nonna offers good quality food for reasonable prices, such as pizzas for under $20 and fancy entrees like tuna tartare for $17.
The restaurant offers good quality food for reasonable prices, such as pizzas for under $20 and fancy entrees such as tuna tartare for $17.
Due to the lack of service, the company needs fewer employees, which means they are paid more and receive perks such as health insurance.
“We have a leaner team, so everyone makes more money,” said Lee Zaremba, who opened De La Nonna in 2021.