The perm, long ridiculed as one of the most embarrassing hairstyles in fashion, is making a surprising comeback.
The look, which is short for “permanent wave,” was pretty much dead and buried in the style world long before the millennium, but like every trend you can think of, it’s back in vogue — thanks to a slew of TikTokers and K-Pop stars.
Who will lead the wave(s) this time? Korean-Australian teen star Danielle Marsh, who is in the K-Pop band NewJeans, wore a full set of tight curls last year, and recently American model Bella Hadid wore her hair in relaxed waves.
Hollywood star Katie Holmes also wore her famous brunette locks in softly tousled curls, most recently at New York Fashion Week.
If we go back to the 1990s, the perm – achieved via a bunch of hot rods, a lot of patience and some pretty harsh chemicals – was the most sought-after look.
New waves! K-pop star Danielle Marsh, 18, who is in the band NewJeans, pictured with a full head of tight curls; the perm has become popular in Korean and Japanese styles – and is also making a comeback in Europe and the US
Teenage girls wanted coppery long curls à la Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman, or girl next door vibes thanks to Kylie’s breakthrough role as mechanic Charlene in Neighbors.
And men? The memory of footballers with shaggy perms in the 1980s remains strong for many – who could forget Kevin Keegan’s famous tight curls when he was on the pitch at the height of his career?
The rebrand has begun, however, through the likes of Timothee Chalamet – and his signature loose brunette curls – and Game of Thrones star Kit Harrington.
And even footballers are rediscovering curls – albeit this time with a shaggy top made neater with closely shaved sides.
TikTok is flooded with Gen-Zers talking about how to get the latest look, including using diffuser extensions on hair dryers and texturizing products to define and enhance curls.
Supermodel Bella Hadid has been wearing her brunette locks in messy curls in recent months
A young Kylie Minogue, pictured with voluminous hair in her breakout role in Neighbours. Right: Julia Roberts made millions of ’90s teens want long auburn curls
Tokyo-based hairstylist Hiroumi shares a shaggy bleach blonde look; the perm is becoming extremely popular in Southeast Asian countries, including Japan and Korea
And there are plenty of clips of people sitting in salons too, with neat rows of perm wands, or lathered up with perm lotion.
While some are blessed with naturally tumbling curls, the vast majority of us will have to reach for the curl chemicals in 2024.
Celebrity hairstylist Tom Smith previously told the Mail that a DIY at-home perm could lead to disaster and urged anyone considering taking the plunge to see an expert.
Actress Katie Holmes arrives at the Michael Kors fashion show in New York earlier this month; the Hollywood star has often worn her straight long hair in softer curls lately
“A perm uses a chemical ingredient that breaks down the molecular structure of the hair, followed by a second step that sticks it back together,” he explained.
‘There’s a matter of minutes difference between a perm and what’s known as “gummy breaking hair” (damaged or very stretchy hair) – so this is definitely best left to the professionals.
‘If you want to experiment and see if a perm is the right fight for you, you can purchase some hair styling tools.
‘I would definitely recommend going this route first before getting a perm.’