Gaza City – Siham Abu Shaaban, 40, never has to think about what to cook for iftar on the first day of the holy month of Ramadan.
Molokhia is obvious: the thick, earthy stew made with the leaves of the jute mallow plant is always the “opener” Ramadan meal in Gaza.
It is a custom cherished by the Abu Shaaban family, like many families in Gaza. Mothers and grandmothers say that the green color of molokhia inspires optimism and believes it will bring good luck in the holy month, says Siham.
Palestinians in Gaza still hope for a better, greener year every year, despite Israel’s repeated attacks during the recent Ramadans. In fact, there have been so many that the preparation of molokhia can be alternately ironic and hopeful, as this time Palestinians wonder if it will fend off attacks.
“My husband, my children and I love molokhia. I used to hear my grandmother say that molokhia is one of the dishes that [brings] blessings,” Siham tells Al Jazeera as she plucks molokhia leaves from the stems.
The mother of four makes molokhia all month long, not only for her children and husband, but also for her mother, father and two sisters.
“It’s part of the custom to have family gatherings during Ramadan, so when I invite my family over and suggest a menu, my dad insists that molokhia should be on the table along with the main meal,” she says.