Most states in the US are defined by a landmark, such as the Statue of Liberty in New York or the Grand Canyon in Arizona. But Louisiana’s personality revolves around food, so all you need to bring with you on a visit is a hearty appetite.
Although New Orleans is one of the best places to enjoy the southern state’s famous cuisine, we decided to travel west along the newest food trail, Gas Station Eats.
As the name suggests, this culinary tour does not involve fancy restaurants; there are great meals served in simple roadside gas stations.
Stretching for 450 miles, the Gas Station Eats trail winds its way through an area once known as No Man’s Land, taking advantage of cheap petrol from 70p a liter (compared to around £1.35 at home) .
The region, on the border with Texas, was once a disputed territory between Spanish Texas and the United States’ newly acquired Louisiana Purchase. Today it is firmly part of Louisiana, but the pioneering and rebellious spirit remains.
Great food: Katja Gaskell sets off on Louisiana’s ‘Gas Station Eats’ road trip. Above, Strother’s Country Store in Vernon Parish, which is along the route
New Orleans “is one of the best places to enjoy the Southern state’s famous cuisine,” says Katja
We drove west on the highway from New Orleans, eventually reaching the swampy southern parish of Calcasieu. Our first stop was the Cajun Fast Mart in Sulfur, a small town on the edge of the Creole Nature Trail.
Known as the Louisiana Outback, the marshes and marshes of this 180-mile byway are teeming with birds—and the occasional alligator.
Like any gas station, Cajun Fast Mart is located in the center of the community: a place where you can do your weekly grocery shopping, stock up on fishing and hunting gear, and catch up on gossip. Each gas station on the route also has a signature dish, and here it’s egg sandwiches with jalapeno mayonnaise.
Foodie fuel: At Chadeaux’s Cajun Kitchen in Allen Parish, Katja learns about the famous boudin sausage (left), and when she stops at 3 J’s Fourways Gas Station in Natchitoches, she is tempted by the burgers (right) but opts for Renee’s Famous Fried Ribs
The ‘Gas Station Eats’ trail stretches 450 miles and winds its way through an area of Louisiana once known as No Man’s Land
Traveling north, we went to Chadeaux’s Cajun Kitchen in Allen Parish (the parishes are a legacy of the time when the state was ruled by Roman Catholic France). Rodney, the owner, said his best seller was homemade boudin sausage, seasoned with a secret spice blend that has been passed down for generations. He added: “We can sell a ton a month. Sometimes people buy a pound of boudin and a six-pack of beer, which we call a seven-course meal.’
Further along, in Beauregard Parish, is the town of DeRidder. Founded in the 1890s, the historic Main Street looks like something out of a John Wayne Western. The featured gas station, Big Thicket BBQ, is known for its Bourbon Peach Ribs. Nearby is the city’s eerie-looking Gothic prison, which is said to be haunted by ghosts of a double hanging that took place in 1928.
There are also less spooky sights along the trail. We spent a few days in Sabine Parish and stayed at Wildwood Resort overlooking Toledo Lake, the largest man-made body of water in the South. A short drive away is Fort Jesup State Historic Site, once the westernmost fort on the frontier.
Sabine Parish is also known for its Native American tamales. At Bub T’s Tamale House, the charming Sepulvado family packs, steams and bakes hundreds a day.
Louisiana’s bayous, as seen above, ‘full of birds – and the occasional alligator,’ says Katja
In the town of DeRidder, Katja dines at Big Thicket BBQ and reveals that it is famous for its Bourbon Peach Ribs
On our way north, we stopped at De Soto Parish for gas at DB’s Station, which serves “meat and threes”: beef, turnip leaves, vegetables and cornbread.
Natchitoches (pronounced Nack-a-tish) was the last town on the route. Founded in 1714 by French explorers, it’s also the official Meat Pie Capital of Louisiana, and the French Market Express gas station does a bustling trade in crawfish meat pies, in addition to some heavenly yam cakes.
Our last stop was 3 J’s Fourways Gas Station, on the outskirts, where we were tempted by the burgers but craved Renee’s Famous Fried Ribs – they deserve to be even more famous.