With a dizzying array of ‘miracle’ creams all promising eternal youth, shopping for skincare can seem like an impossible task. So how do we know what really works when it comes to anti-aging? As a dermatologist, I get asked that question all the time.
I tell my patients that a good skin care routine doesn’t have to be expensive or complicated, but do must be intelligently formulated, suited to your individual skin type and carried out consistently. It should also be streamlined, with only a small number of products – more is not more when it comes to optimal skin health and tackling the signs of ageing.
Patients often ask top dermatologist Dr. Emma Wedgworth, “What actually works when it comes to anti-aging?”
What does the ideal anti-aging skincare routine look like? And which products work? Here’s my expert guide…
Your morning routine
Step 1: Cleaner
It’s crucial to get this right – patients of mine who use the wrong cleanser for their skin type often have issues like irritation or clogged pores. I prefer non-foaming gel and cream cleansers because they’re gentle.
Step 2: Vitamin C serum
Antioxidants are compounds that fight free radicals, which are destructive, aging molecules that are activated by UV light, pollution, and other environmental factors. Vitamin C is the most well-researched topical antioxidant, and l-ascorbic acid is the type of vitamin C with the most evidence, so that’s what you’ll want in your serum. It can help reduce pigmentation and is essential for healthy collagen production.
Use in the morning immediately after cleansing on your entire face and neck, including under the eyes.
Step 3: Azelaic Acid Serum
A superstar ingredient, azelaic acid is anti-inflammatory with anti-blemish, anti-redness and anti-pigmentation properties: great for brightening, clearing and evening out pigmentation. Most skin types can use it and it works well in the morning after vitamin C. Alternatively, you can use it alongside a retinoid in the evening (avoiding the eye area).
Step 4: Moisturizer
Optimal hydration is essential for combating premature aging. A good moisturizer nourishes and protects your skin’s barrier, which becomes more delicate with age. Moisturizer ingredients that help strengthen components of your skin’s protective barrier are best: look for niacinamide, ceramides, and glycerin. A moisturizer will also help increase your skin’s tolerance to powerful wrinkle-fighting actives like retinoids.
Step 5: Sunscreen
There is no anti-aging without sunscreen. UV exposure is responsible for the majority of non-genetic skin aging, so wrinkle-fighting ingredients are useless without year-round UV protection. Daily sunscreens are no longer the thick, greasy products they once were; today, they offer sleek textures for every skin type and contain additional anti-aging ingredients. Many also double as powerful moisturizers, so you can use them in place of your day cream if you prefer.
Your bedtime routine
Step 1: Cleaner
In the evening, it is even more important to cleanse your skin than in the morning, because this not only removes make-up and dirt, but also pollutants that age the skin.
Step 2: Peptide serum
Yes, you need a third serum. Peptides are ‘signaling’ molecules that help the skin function more efficiently in repairing wrinkles, clearing up pigmentation, fighting irritation, and so on. Their composition and size determine how well they are absorbed and function. They are very well tolerated, so they are suitable for even the most sensitive skin. They can be used in place of, or in conjunction with, a retinoid.
Step 3: A retinoid
A favorite among dermatologists, “retinoids” is the umbrella term for a group of creams related to vitamin A. Retinoids help increase the amount and quality of collagen and improve fine lines. They speed up cell turnover to improve texture for smoother skin, soften pigmentation, and fight blemishes. The different molecules (retinol, retinaldehyde, and granactive retinoid) all have pros and cons, but are all effective. Retinoids can irritate your skin, but when introduced slowly and in the right strength, most people can successfully incorporate them into their routine.
Step 4: Moisturizer
A moisturizer that is suitable for your skin type can be used day and night. A separate night cream is not necessary.
The 11 Best Anti-Aging Products I Recommend to You
Dr Sam’s Flawless Cleanser is suitable for all skin types
Dr. Sam’s Flawless Cleanser, £19 (drsambunting.com)
A mild product that I really appreciate and is suitable for all skin types.
Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, £165 (skinceuticals.co.uk)
This is the gold standard of vitamin C serums, with 15 percent L-ascorbic acid, vitamin E, and ferulic acid. Formulated to optimize vitamin C stability, it is one of the most well-studied vitamin C products on the market.
Paula’s Choice 10 Percent Azelaic Acid Booster, £34.85 ((paulaschoice.co.uk)
In addition to soothing, brightening and purifying azelaic acid, this product also contains salicylic acid to keep blemish-prone skin clear.
Cerave PM Lotion Ultra Lightweight, £11.75 (amazon.nl)
A lightweight moisturizer that is ideal for oily skin (which can be hydrated just as well as dry skin). The cream contains niacinamide, which strengthens the skin barrier and brightens the skin. It also acts as a protective antioxidant.
Murad City Skin Age Defense SPF50, £69 (cultbeauty.co.uk)
A broad spectrum mineral sunscreen (ideal for sensitive skin) with multiple ingredients that protect against pollution caused by aging.
Heliocare Water Gel SPF50 Beige/Bronze, £32.99 (heliocare.co.uk)
Lightweight, broad-spectrum and rich in anti-aging antioxidants. Has a tinted moisturizer-like finish – wear your sunscreen as your makeup, not the other way around!
No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Serum, from Boots, has the approval of Dr. Wedgworth
No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Serum, £34.95 (boots.com)
This product contains a patented peptide complex clinically proven to penetrate the skin and visibly repair damage by stimulating the skin’s key proteins, collagen and elastin.
Medik8 Crystal Retinal is available in five different strengths
Medik8 Crystal Retinal, from £49 (cultbeauty.co.uk)
This serum comes in five different strengths, so you can increase the strength as your tolerance to the powerful retinoid retinaldehyde increases.
The regular Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane, £15.90 (theordinary.com)
Granactive retinoid is better tolerated than retinol, but it is the stronger variant. So you may need to start with the lowest concentration of 2% and build up the dosage slowly.
Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restoration 2:4:2
Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2, £150 (skinceuticals.co.uk)
A delicious, rich cream for drier skin that contains the optimal ratio of ceramides, lipids and cholesterol to restore and maintain the all-important skin barrier.
Naturium Multipeptide Eye Cream, £18 (spacenk.com)
Eye creams aren’t essential, but peptides are a good choice in a targeted eye product because this sensitive area tolerates them well. This lightweight cream contains brightening, plumping, and line-relaxing peptides.
- As told to Ingeborg van Lotringen