MMy wife and I have always had certain non-negotiables when looking for a rental property: good lighting, a good location – and a gas stove. We love to cook together, and countless food shows have convinced us that nothing is more important for a tasty meal than a flame.
Then came the pandemic. Our landlord wanted to move back into our flat in Barcelona, so in the first months of 2020 we were looking for a new place to stay. With just days to move before the first Covid lockdown came into effect, we were forced to put aside our preference for gas – and reluctantly moved into an apartment with an induction hob.
Previous encounters with the slow and inconsistent heating elements of early electric stoves had soured us on the idea of cooking with electricity, but it only took a few days for us to realize that our new induction stove was not only tolerable, but far superior.
Suddenly cooking was easier than ever before. Water boils very quickly; I could set a timer and walk away knowing the heat would turn off automatically; and cleaning became a breeze. Gone are the days of degreasing cast iron burner rings and soaking grates in the sink – a quick wipe over the glass and the kitchen would shine.
The switch to electric is often depicted as a tragic culinary loss, the abandonment of classic cooking principles. But for the everyday tasks – caramelizing onions, sautéing vegetables or crisping a skin-on salmon fillet to perfection – I was surprised to find that there was actually no difference at all.
Don’t get me wrong: there’s a place for fire – and that’s one reason why barbecuing is so delicious. The charring gives a taste that you cannot imitate with an electric stove. But dishes that really need to be cooked over an open fire are the exception and not the rule.
I look at it this way: if I were making poached eggs (my dad’s favorite) or chai (my father-in-law’s), would I bring the water to a boil on the grill? Of course not. Then why the need to use gas every day?
Our late switch to induction came amid a wave of horrific stories about the health and climate risks of gas stoves. Research has shown that cooking on gas is comparable to passive smoking in the kitchen, or grilling next to an oil installation. No thanks. A gas stove can make the air in a kitchen so dirty it would be illegal if it was outside. Do you have children? It could give them asthma.
There are indications that ventilation helps. But I don’t always remember to turn on the extractor hood or open the window every time I turn on the hob. Will you? Then there’s the risk of leaks: dozens of people die in Britain every year from carbon monoxide poisoning. An induction hob does not do that force you to evacuate your home, navigate road closures or leave your college campusto name just a few examples of the daily inconveniences that arise from our society’s dependence on gas.
What’s even worse is that gas stoves also cook us all. The main ingredient that fuels them is methane, a greenhouse gas 80 times more harmful for the environment than carbon dioxide. It all adds up: in the US, for example, methane emissions from gas hobs are equivalent to putting another half million cars on the road every year. I don’t want every pot of soup I make to contribute to that.
That’s why I stopped using gas stoves – and gave up my previous belief that I could never live in a house without them. The transition was seamless because there were simply no compromises made when it came to my cooking. There is no justification for burning fossil fuels under my food every day. The realization sometimes felt like I was living in the future, even though I’m a little behind. Such as switching from a coal fireplace to central heating, or swapping a tired old pony for an electric scooter. Instead of a sacrifice, it feels like a leap forward.
But in the US, where I’m from, there has been an uproar about the idea to ban them. Changing the foundations of our lives is difficult. But it’s time to remove the gas from our kitchens. Some may be shocked. The rest of us, however, can step quietly into the future. It’s shameful that it took a global pandemic for me to come to my senses. Hopefully our governments will also smell the gas soon.