I spent 10 days at a nudist campsite in France where even the staff are naked – this is what it was like (including the ‘wardrobe rules’)

What is it like to stay at a naturist campsite?

I just got back from ten days CHM Montalivet on the Atlantic coast of south-west France, about an hour and a half drive from Bordeaux in the Medoc region.

‘CHM’ stands for ‘Centre Hélio-Marin’, which roughly translates as ‘sun-sea center’. We might say “seaside town,” but there are (thankfully) no Kiss-Me-Quick hats or boulders here.

It’s a vast site of 200 hectares, dotted with sturdy maritime pines and black locust trees, with more than 3,000 accommodation options, including various sizes and types of chalets and plenty of sunny or shady pitches for those bringing a tent or camper.

On the west side, about a kilometer from the entrance, there is a long sandy beach and in between you will find just about everything you could want for a perfect holiday.

The only thing that sets it apart from any other holiday resort or campsite anywhere in the world is that you will see naked people. Lots of them. Buy a baguette, a bag of apples or a bottle of wine in the well-stocked ‘Spar’ shop, walk around or cycle and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere, drink café au lait at one of the patisseries, enjoy a glass of wine on a terrace, enjoy an evening meal with friends in one of the many restaurants, dancing to live music in one of the bars, swimming in one of the pools or enjoying the sun on that beautiful, quiet beach.

In the middle of summer, 18,000 people are present on the site every day. Also, more than 2,000 people of all nationalities live here, although French rules state that this cannot be their main residence.

There is no need for clothes anywhere.

The site has been running for over 70 years and the spirit and values ​​of those pioneering days are still very much part of the agenda, especially when it comes to encouraging guests to forget what’s in their wardrobe.

Even some of the staff are naked, or partially naked, even while working.

Full nudity is required in most common areas, weather permitting. But in practice, you will not find everyone undressed 24/7 for various reasons.

For example, many people enjoy dressing up for dinner.

If you’re here, you might be one of the naked people – don’t shy away. Participating is the easiest, even if you’ve never done it before.

Countless newcomers decide to ditch the bikini for good or throw away the trunks forever after having the experience.

It is often reported that just 15 minutes is enough to forget that you are naked and that you are also tanned among people. I would go further and suggest that nudity is becoming so common that it becomes invisible.

And it is far from full.

There is so much space and so much to do that people are spread out. Both pools have plenty of sunbeds and the sunbathing area at the water park – with its slides and rocky landscape – takes up more space than the round pool.

I hired a bike, for about £30 a week, and spent a lot of time exploring the many footpaths that criss-cross the property, between houses and chalets; along hedges and flower borders; between the trees on the camping sites; to the beach for a lazy hour on the sand, followed by a dip in the ocean; to a bar for a drink, alone or with new friends; sunbathing by or diving in the pools; see which restaurant I could choose that evening; or visit one of the shops to stock up on cheese, wine and sunscreen.

Bliss – and my Apple Watch confirmed that it benefited me in more physical ways too.

It’s hard to tear yourself away, but there’s plenty to do and see outside the campsite.

The small beachside town of Montalivet is just minutes away by car. In the summer months, CHM even has a gate that leads vacationers (dressed for the occasion, of course) to a path through dense forest into town.

Is there anything as lively and colorful as a French street market?

Open every day, this includes an indoor section with a delectable range of cheeses of every shape and hue; piles of fruits and vegetables, including deep red, smooth-skinned tomatoes, bunches of purple garlic and plump oranges; artfully arranged fish and seafood – freshly caught and whole, beady eyes staring or prepared for cooking; mounds of crusty bread with thin baguettes displayed vertically; and a meat department that would put Harrods to shame.

There was more outside in the sun.

I walked happily past a cluster of stalls selling one article of clothing after another, paintings, hats, bags, curiosities, baskets of gnarled gray-shelled oysters, household items, souvenirs, bowls of shiny, wet olives and even more cheeses all rubbed together happily.

A sample of Ossau-Iraty, a sheep’s cheese, was offered by a convincing stallholder and a spontaneous purchase after tasting was an easy decision.

Stopping here for lunch was a no-brainer. I sat overlooking the waves crashing on the sandy beach of ‘O Dunes de Monta’ as I worked my way through a large plate of charcuterie, which on reflection was probably meant for two. A glass of vin blanc made it an easy go down.

I returned to my modern cabin with large deck, kitchen, shower room and toilet. The campsite also has sparkling clean showers, toilet blocks and washing up facilities for campers. There is also a launderette. And a hairdresser. You can choose from over 10 eateries/bars with menus ranging from burgers, pizza, crèpes and pastries to something more haute cuisine.

For those who want to put more effort into their evening meal, a butcher and a Plats Cuisines outlet with meals all ready for you to take home and cook always have rows of naked wanderers taking their pick.

An open-air cinema, an extensive entertainment program and sport that comes from your ears complete the picture.

Located in one of the largest wine regions in the world, it would be a mistake not to take a tour of a vineyard – or more than one if you have the time.

The choice in the Médoc is enormous.

I booked one at the ‘Grand Cru’ Chateau Haut-Bages Libéral, just outside Paulliac.

After giving myself a leisurely hour-long drive to admire the vine-filled landscape – I saw I would pass the famous Chateau Lafite – it was raining heavily and progress was slow. Even slower when there was a carriage, horse trailer and (two) tractors in front of me.

I burst through the Chateau reception door, full of profuse apologies (in my best French) and an acknowledgment that I had probably missed the tour, only to discover that I was the only guest.

Léa was the perfect guide, an intern who would soon complete her masters before heading to New Zealand to immerse herself in the world of wine making and selling.

Knowledgeable, enthusiastic and with excellent English, we inspected vines dripping with purple fruits, a few weeks before harvest, barrels and containers of various shapes and sizes – including towering amphora-shaped in porcelain, commissioned by the Castle of Limoges – and barrel after barrel of wine waits its turn to fill a bottle. Of course a tasting followed. All very good value at around £20.

I channeled my inner Robbie Williams at an outdoor karaoke that evening, watching and listening to the crowd singing along to French songs I didn’t know. A trio of German girls in their thirties belted out ‘Super Trouper’ with well-rehearsed moves.

I was looking forward to more cycling, beach days, swimming, al fresco dining – and further enjoyment of escaping the daily grind.

A naturist holiday is one of the most peaceful and relaxing holidays you can experience. And here at CHM, as in many such places, you feel completely immersed in the green surroundings and the natural environment.

Aperitifs are offered by neighbors – and easily accepted. Stars appear at night like glitter spread across a black cloth above the silhouettes of the pines and the only sound is the crashing of waves on the beach.

Best of all, being around like-minded, easy-going, non-judgmental people who have discovered a wonderful way to bring intense joy into their lives – whatever the world may say about ‘private parts’ – will keep you recharging your batteries like never before can charge for.

Andrew Welch is a spokesperson for British naturism (bn.org.uk), where various events take place throughout the year, both indoors and outdoors.