It’s harder than ever to know whether a designer bag is real or fake – which is the point if you’re hoping to buy a fake handbag that looks eerily similar, but a problem if you’re hoping your second-hand purchase is authentic.
Unfortunately, having a luxury bag authenticated doesn’t always mean it’s genuine, as counterfeits are becoming even more convincing as super fakes are on the rise.
Often, authenticators can misidentify a bag if they are not experts on the designer and the deep history of the handbag.
To find out how to guarantee your expensive designer bag isn’t a dupe, FEMAIL spoke to authenticators about how to do it right – and why some get it wrong.
More bags are fake than ever, and the authenticators sometimes get it wrong. This way you can see if you have the real one
Texas-based Zekrayat Husein runs Zekos Authentication, which is known for always correctly identifying authentic Chanel bags
Why should you authenticate your luxury bag?
The rise of super fakes can make it extremely difficult to tell if a bag is genuine or not.
One handbag lover detailed a “nightmare situation” on Reddit: “I bought a vintage Fendi bag for $700 on Friday. When it was delivered, I immediately noticed some warning signs (irregular stitches, chipped leather) that weren’t mentioned in the original listing.”
After the bag was authenticated by three different third-party services, two came back as authentic and one determined it was counterfeit.
One person on Reddit solved the problem authentication process, which explains: ‘Some will authenticate most major brands, others may specialize. Prices range from $25 to $50 per bag, maybe more depending on the service.”
‘Authenticators need very clear photos up close. I had to use a macro lens attachment for my phone to get close-ups of the detail and texture,” they continued.
“There are some where you can pay more and send the bag for personal inspection,” and people can also take the bag to the original design house, although that’s not always the best technique.
Another Reddit user wrote: ‘I get a lot of my bags from places that authenticate, but I always authenticate myself and then get a second opinion just to be sure. “If I’m going to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on a bag, I need to be sure it’s legit.”
For those who want to learn how to start authenticating on their own, there are a few simple tips.
Make sure the certificate of authenticity is legit, unlike this dupe, which is clearly fake
The Texas-based authenticator called this a “decent fake” because it is made of genuine leather and has a real zipper
What should you pay attention to when buying a second-hand handbag?
Zekrayat Husein, 42, of San Antonio, Texas, walks Zekos authenticationwhich receives rave reviews, making her a true expert on what to look for.
“Due to the prevalence of high-quality counterfeit handbags, it is essential that you authenticate before purchasing,” Zekrayat warned.
“When casually evaluating, confirm that the bag’s color, leather type, size and hardware are consistent with the era in which the bag was produced.”
Zekrayat recommended initially checking that the serial number matches the date of manufacture and assessing the structure of the bag to ensure it “looks perfect when filled and upright.”
“Don’t worry too much about minor flaws as these can actually indicate authenticity as genuine bags are often assembled by hand rather than machine made, which can lead to minor imperfections,” Zekrayat advises.
Instead, “pay close attention to heat stamps as they can reveal a lot about a bag’s authenticity,” citing the classic Chanel flap as an example as it is made exclusively in France.
Calling this a super fake, Zekrayat warned that it is “highly misleading” due to the authentic leather, adding: “skilled authenticators might spot this subtlety, but many services can be fooled”
How do you choose where to buy your bag?
New York City-based Vidyuth Srinivasan, co-founder and CEO of Entrupy, which authenticates bags using advanced AI, said it is important to see whether companies use authentication services when purchasing luxury goods.
“The importance lies in ensuring that websites use a third-party authenticator for verification,” Vidyuth explains, adding that Entrupy operates independently, meaning that “the focus is on delivering an accurate result for our customers and consumers.”
Vidyuth suggested that consumers ask questions about the verification process during purchase or seek post-purchase verification for added assurance.
Should you take your bag to the brand’s boutique?
Emily says: ‘Just like with doctor’s advice, it’s always good to get a second opinion’
Based in Washington, DC, Emily Erkel is the co-founder and CMO of a luxury pre-owned wholesaler LePrix – advised ‘not always rely on taking items to the branded boutique.’
“While many sales associates are very knowledgeable about the latest season, they may not be well informed or exposed to a vintage piece from twenty years ago,” Emily explains.
Instead, Emily said, “It’s better to trust the authentication experts in the second-hand industry.”
Expert authenticators know everything from the types of thread to the stitching techniques used.
Be sure to check the authenticator’s ratings beforehand to ensure they are always accurate.
Which handbags should you avoid buying?
‘If a bag is a bestseller in the second-hand world, it is most likely a dupe,’ claims Emily.
“Even if it’s not a bestseller, the counterfeit industry can still counterfeit one,” she adds, listing Dior Book Totes ($3,350), the Louis Vuitton Neverfull ($2,100) and Gucci Marmont ($2,550) as frequently replicated items .
Vidyuth mentioned Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Goyard, Dior and Saint Laurent as brands that are more likely to be replicated.
Can you guess which one is fake? The Chanel dupes are so good that you have to be a true expert on sewing and history to figure out which one is real
Zekrayat says, “It’s important to remember that the best-selling bags are often the ones that have been most accurately counterfeited,” naming the most sought-after and high-quality duplicate counterfeits in order: the Classic Flaps ($10,000), Boys ($6,100), Coco Handles ($6,900), and the 19s ($6,400).
After Chanel raised bag prices again in March, most of the brand’s Classic Flap bags are selling for more than $10,000, which has led to an increase in counterfeit items.
“If buying online, it may be wiser to opt for seasonal bags, as counterfeiters typically do not prioritize them given lower demand,” Zekrayat advises.
‘Counters often use authentic flaps to create high-quality counterfeit products, but tend to overlook the subtle, seasonal details.
‘To this day I have not seen an exact, mirrored or identical duplicate replica of any bag; good copies do exist, but they are only fraternal twins, not exact duplicates.’