It’s the gold standard in anti-aging, but you might be setting it up wrong.
Retinol – the vitamin A-based ingredient – has long been touted as the go-to product for reducing fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of wear and tear on your skin.
The powerful chemical has also been shown to reduce the signs of acne.
But you can’t just put it on at any time of the day.
And too much of it can be very bad.
Dr. Manuela Marcheggiani, a dermatologist at Isomers Skincare in Toronto, took to TikTok to warn all 566,00 followers about the common mistakes people make when using the product.
Dr. Manuela Marcheggiani, dermatologist at Isomers Skincare in Toronto, took to TikTok to share her tips on retinol
Retinol stimulates the production of elastin and collagen, which reduce fine lines, wrinkles, sun spots and uneven skin tone
Retinol is a form of retinoid, which is made from vitamin A. The molecules are powerful enough to travel beneath the outer layer of skin to the epidermis, the middle layer.
From there, it works to neutralize free radicals, unstable molecules that can damage human cells and lead to a host of chronic diseases, as well as accelerate aging.
Retinol stimulates the production of elastin and collagen, which reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, sun spots and uneven skin tone.
However, it doesn’t work so well during the day.
“You should use retinol at night,” said Dr. Marcheggiani in the newspaper video, which has more than 10 million views.
This is because retinoids can break down when exposed to ultraviolet rays from the sun, making them less effective.
Cell division also peaks at night due to our circadian rhythm, the body’s natural clock, meaning retinol can reach cells most effectively during this time.
Dr. Marcheggiani also warns that while you can use it every day, you can ease into the routine. ‘You have to build up a tolerance to using retinol every day,” she said.
If your skin is not used to it, it can lead to irritation, redness and peeling of the skin, making the face look older.
This is because retinol leads to faster cell turnover, the rate at which new cells replace old ones.
Sometimes this happens faster than the skin cells can regenerate themselves, thinning the protective skin barrier.
‘You start with once a week, then twice a week. Three times next week, and then you evaluate,” Dr. Marcheggiani said.
“If you go to four and your skin doesn’t like it, go back to three or back to two.”
Dr. Marcheggiani also shared other tips on using products with niacinamide and azelaic acid.
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that builds up various proteins in the skin.
It has been shown to help build keratin, a protein that keeps skin firm and healthy, helping the skin retain moisture and minimize redness.
When used at a low percentage, such as five percent, Dr. Marcheggiani said, “You can use this during the day and at night.”
However, she warned that it’s easy to get too much of a good thing. “Niacinamide seems to be everywhere,” she said.
It is also available in different percentages, up to 20 percent total, and is found in multiple types of products, such as serums and toners.
“You may be consuming a 30 percent surplus every day,” Dr. Marcheggiani said.
“That could be too much.”
Getting it from so many different sources at once can lead to excess amounts, which can cause burning, itching and redness.
“I would say be careful with niacinamide and don’t use it every day,” Dr. Marcheggiani said.
‘Make room for it, especially if it’s in other products.’
Azelaic acid is a compound naturally found in wheat and barley and is produced by healthy fungi that live on the skin.
It is usually used to treat mild to moderate acne and can be mixed with retinol.
“You can use this twice a day,” said Dr. Marcheggiani. However, if it also contains retinol, use it once a day, in the evening.