The latest anti-aging skincare trend may surprise you, especially since it’s being embraced by women in their 20s.
Collagen banking is a concept where young women start building their collagen levels at an early age. When their skin starts to shrink as they age – a process in which most women naturally lose collagen – it means their skin is primed.
So, how does one conserve their collagen – which provides structure and support to the skin – and does starting early really work when it comes to preventing signs of aging?
To find out, FEMAIL spoke with New York City-based dermatologists Carmen Castilla and Hadley Kingwho explained how to embrace the latest skincare craze.
Collagen banking is a concept where young women start building up their collagen levels at an early age so that when they start to drop, their skin is primed (stock image)
Board-certified dermatologist at New York Dermatology Group Carmen Castilla has found that her patients have ‘significant interest in increasing collagen production’
The concept has gone viral on TikTok as skincare experts urge young women to invest in their skin early and improve the… #collagenbank hashtag to discuss the best products.
There are several approaches to storing collagen, but sunscreen and retinoids are part of the intensive skin care process, as are chemical peels, microneedling, Botox or fillers.
Board certified dermatologist at New York Dermatology Group Carmen Castile has found that her patients “have a significant interest in increasing collagen production.”
However, it’s not all about collagen production when it comes to maintaining youthful skin as you age.
“While collagen is often fixated on collagen, having healthy-looking skin involves more than just increasing collagen levels,” Dr. warned. Castilla, explaining that several factors accelerate skin aging.
Dr. Castilla suggested using retinoids and sunscreen, which focus on maintaining healthy skin rather than just increasing collagen production.
The dermatologist thinks the sole focus “could be a reason why many ‘hero’ ingredients that focus solely on collagen production fail to live up to their hype.”
‘We all go through the aging process with decreased collagen production and other age-related skin changes. The rate of these changes can be slowed by the use of sunscreen, retinoids and antioxidants that protect the integrity of our collagen and other skin support structures,” said Dr. Castile.
There are several approaches to storing collagen, but sunscreen, retinoids, chemical peels, microneedling, Botox and fillers are part of the intensive process (stock image)
Dr. Castilla explained that there are procedures that can help increase collagen production, including resurfacing lasers such as Fraxel, shown above (stock image)
“It’s much easier to slow that descent than to try to reverse those changes when they’re already there,” Dr. advised. Castile.
But she stated that there is evidence that “a diet low in sugar and refined carbohydrates is associated with younger-looking skin.”
The dermatologist also explained that there are procedures that can help increase collagen production, including Reapplication of lasers such as Fraxel, Clear and Brilliant, CO2 and Erbium, as well as microneedling with RF, has some evidence of increasing collagen production.
Dr. Castilla said non-invasive tightening devices such as Sofwave and Ultherapy can also increase collagen production.
Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Hadley King, who is also a clinical instructor of dermatology at Weill Medical College of Cornell University, agreed that collagen banking is about lifestyle changes and not just about beauty products.
The Harvard student tells her patients to avoid smoking, eat a healthy diet rich in fruits, vegetables, lean proteins and healthy fats, and minimize refined carbohydrates.
Dr. King also suggests exercising regularly, minimizing stress and getting enough sleep.
Dr. King said, “It’s reasonable to add additional topical ingredients in our 30s or late 20s” to help with collagen production.
Dr. King recommended using retinoids and peptides, as well as supplements like Biosil to support collagen, elastin and keratin.
“Studies showed improvements in skin elasticity, wrinkles and fine lines,” Dr. King to FEMAIL about the collagen supplement.
Microneedling can also help increase collagen production, although patients don’t necessarily need to start when they are young (stock image)
While it may be tempting to start collagen banking in your younger years, Dr. Castilla explains: ‘If you don’t have much to ‘improve’, you won’t see much after one of these procedures – it’s more for maintenance. .’
However, that doesn’t stop younger people from using these lasers and tensioning devices, but it may not produce the right results.
“In these cases, I see patients say the procedure ‘didn’t work,’ but the problem is often that the expectations were unrealistic, not the device itself.”
It is also possible to build collagen with injectables.
‘Botox or other neurotoxins have been shown to increase collagen and help reorganize collagen in the extracellular matrix, improving the appearance of the skin.’
And it makes sense to start banking on skincare in your twenties, with a combination of sunscreen, a retinoid and antioxidant.
“Skin care is a long-term game: preserving what you have with these skin products over time, rather than seeing dramatic results in the short term.”