Want to banish purple eye bags? Don’t skimp on concealer. After fuller, more luscious-looking lips? Go for a striking lipstick. And for flawless skin without pores? Of course, reach for a foundation with maximum coverage.
Right? Wrong.
It turns out that these age-old beauty tips have the same result: they make you look older, no matter what decade you’re in.
Celebrity Sydney make-up artist Tobi Henney is known for her ‘light-handed’ approach and her ability to bring out the best features of her clients – rather than drawing attention to the products themselves.
She has worked with stars of all ages, including actress Jessica Alba, 43, model Barbara Palvin, 31, and designer Diane von Furstenberg, 77, and has created iconic looks for the Met Gala and Cannes Film Festival.
And no matter the occasion: less is always more, she believes.
Here she shares the common mistakes women make at different stages of their lives, the products you should banish from your beauty bag – and how to shave years off your face…
Tobi Henney traveled the world for 15 years as a make-up artist for Jessica Alba, Barbara Palvin and Diane von Furstenberg, among others. Now she’s sharing her beauty secrets
Tobi says our makeup routine should evolve as we age and experience different concerns. She is pictured with model and actress Barbara Palvin, 31, one of Tobi’s most loyal customers
Twenty
According to Tobi, women in their twenties often make the most mistakes because they don’t fully understand the needs of their skin.
The most common mistake Tobi sees in women in their 20s is applying too much foundation, which leads to the dreaded “cakey” look seen on Kendall Jenner, then 20, when she made the MTV Movie Awards attended in April 2016.
And their most common mistake? Over-applying foundation for flawless skin.
This is a common trend on social media, with information about contouring, a process that uses cosmetics to shape the face, but also a process that can rob a face of its natural beauty, leading to the dreaded ‘cakey look.
Youthful skin does not need much coverage, regardless of the number of perceived defects. In fact, adding a layer of foundation to areas only draws attention to those areas.
Tobi recommends that younger women use a lighter foundation or a tinted moisturizer to enhance their natural skin, e.g. Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Flawless Filter ($70), with a dewy, illuminating finish.
The next most common mistake is buying the wrong color base.
Choose a brand like Fenty Beauty by Rihanna. Her Pro Filt’r soft matte longwear foundation ($62) comes in a whopping 50 shades and is an oil-free formula that won’t clog pores. And remember: ‘It’s essential to test makeup in natural light to ensure it matches skin tone,’ warns Tobi.
1930s
“This is the time when women should start adjusting their makeup routine to account for subtle changes in skin texture, tone and facial structure,” says Tobi.
Heavier eyeliner and darker eye shadow should be avoided as they make the eye appear smaller. Tobi recommends opting for brown shades instead, such as Teddy eyeliner from MAC ($52).
This is also the time to start applying daily sunscreen – a must to prevent premature aging and skin damage. It should become part of your daily routine. Even if the makeup you’re using contains SPF, it’s always safer to buy a specialty product and apply it separately.
Attempt La Roche Posay Anthelios Invisible Liquid SPF 50+ ($37.95). It is quickly absorbed, is kind to sensitive skin and is approved by dermatologists. It has become a cult beauty classic for a reason.
You may be used to finishing your makeup with setting powder to mattify a shiny nose or chin, but be careful not to overdo it. Powders only emphasize fine lines and make the skin look dull.
Heavier eyeliner and darker eye shadow should be ruled out after a woman turns 30 because they make the eye appear smaller. Cara Delevingne, then 30, rocked heavy eyeliner as she attended the Vanity Fair Oscar Party in Beverly Hills on March 12, 2023
Tobi’s 15-year career has taken her from Sydney to LA, where she works with celebrity clients
Forties
As perimenopause approaches, women should rethink their makeup routines.
Hormonal changes can often lead to drier, more uneven skin tone and texture, and your face can become more sensitive to products.
“Women at this age have different skin concerns,” says Tobi, “and certain makeup techniques that worked in the past may not be as flattering.” For example, dramatic, dark or heavy lipstick should make way for creamy, hydrating lip colors in softer and subtler shades, with an extra touch of shine.
She explains that the dark, matte colors make lips appear thin, but the softer and glossier shades give lips a soft fullness that looks more youthful.
As a woman approaches her forties, dramatic, dark or heavy lipstick – like the one seen here on American actress Kirsten Dunst – gives way to creamy, moisturizing lip colors in softer and subtler shades, with an extra touch of shine.
Fifties and older
This era is all about ‘enhancing natural beauty’ while maintaining a ‘fresh and youthful appearance’ – but this certainly doesn’t mean you should ditch makeup altogether.
Tobi’s most important tip is actually: don’t forget the eyebrows. At this age they are often overlooked, just when they need the most attention.
They become thinner as we age, so use an eyebrow pencil or powder to fill in the thin areas. This will frame the face and pull back the years.
Using the wrong concealer also ages mature skin; if it’s too light or too thick, it will only accentuate under-eye circles and fine lines.
Tobi urges women in their 50s not to ignore their eyebrows, which thin with age and need definition to avoid looking dull (photo by model)
‘Choose a lightweight, hydrating concealer that matches your skin tone and apply it sparingly. Invest in moisture Makeup sponge from Beautyblender ($34) for proper blending.”
Trends to avoid at any age
Youthful makeup is all about hydration and dewyness: “Matte and dry skin ages strongly, as it can make fine lines and wrinkles appear more visible,” says Tobi.
Instead, use cream-based products that provide a ‘dewy’ base on which you can build the look you want. This ensures ‘fresh-looking, hydrated skin’.
She also warns against eyeshadow or lash looks that pull the eyes down instead of lifting them up. This invariably makes the wearer look years older.
She recommends it #1 The serum (from $114) and #2 The serum ($204) from the Australian luxury skincare brand Rode.
As for eye shadow, she says MAC Cosmetics are the best, and the shade Woodwinked ($35) – a light brown color with a metallic finish – works for everyone.
Be especially careful to throw away expired products. Mascara works the fastest, so you normally need to touch it up every three months.