Brie-lliant or not very gouda? MailOnline tests plant-based ‘cheeses’

From tenderloin to sausages, fish and even eggs, a plethora of vegan alternatives to animal products have hit the market in recent years.

Scientists and chefs create compelling animal-free meat and dairy imitations to help the public make more environmentally friendly and ethical choices.

A newcomer to the market is London-based company Julienne Bruno, which has just launched three plant-based products each inspired by classic soft cheeses.

They’re made from ingredients like soy milk, coconut oil, plant fibers, and “vegan fermentation cultures,” and can be used in salads, pasta dishes, and more.

MailOnline compared each ‘cheese’ with its animal equivalent to see if they are brie-lliant… or not very gouda.

Julienne Bruno’s three ‘cheeses’ – called Burrella, Superstraccia and Crematta – are inspired by burrata, stracciatella and cream cheese respectively and cost between £3.50 and £4.50.

But the brand insists it never intended to make vegan imitations of real cheese, because it values ​​the “history, culture and provenance” behind it.

“We are taking plant-based to a new level through exploration, creativity and delicious discoveries,” says Julienne Bruno on his website.

‘By bringing together innovative techniques and simple, natural products, we show that plant-based is the most exciting area of ​​gastronomy.’

First is the Burrella, which the company describes as a ‘cheese with a fine bite and creamy interior, best served cold’.

It’s an approximation of burrata – an Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream, and a classic hors d’oeuvre in trendy London restaurants, often served with cold cuts.

Instead of cottage cheese and whey, Burrella’s main ingredient is soy milk, which is produced by soaking and grinding soybeans.

Usually, a burrata has an outer shell of firm cheese, while the inside contains stretchy curds known as stracciatella or “little bits.”

So when the burrata is cut open, the bits of stracciatella spill out – perfect for spooning onto crusty bread or salads.

positioning the vegetable’Burrella’ next to a £3.60 burrata I bought at the supermarket, I’m impressed by how similar they look.

Maybe the real milk-based burrata looks a bit firmer and smoother, but both spill delicious stringy curds when I cut them open, which I spoon onto a cracker.

Exactly how the company managed to replicate the exterior of burrata without curds and whey is not discussed on its website, although MailOnline has asked for more information.

The taste of the vegan’Burrella’ is very impressive – lots of creaminess with a nice touch of lactic acid.

In comparison, the cow’s milk burrata from the supermarket tastes smooth and milky but not very tasty.

My taste test partner also prefers the Burrella, describes it as very smooth and creamy, despite not having the strongest texture.

So far, so good – I would definitely choose that Burrella again, probably for appetizers or dollops on an Italian-style tomato salad or a pizza fresh from the oven.

Next, the Crematta, which the company says is supposed to be related to cream cheese and is ideal for pasta sauces, cheesecakes, dessert frostings and more.

I liken Crematta to a £2 tub of cottage cheese, a similarly soft spreadable cheese made by heating soured milk until it sets before straining.

Unfortunately, I like Crematta less than Burrella – it had a good robust texture that successfully imitated a cream cheese, but it tasted too salty, like gulping down a gulp of sea water.

Per 100g serving, Crematta has 0.96g of salt – slightly more than the 0.75g in the same serving of Philadelphia cream cheese.

However, my taste test partner prefers the Crematta to the quark – misidentifying them as each other.

Finally, the ‘Superstraccia’, named as a reference to stracciatella – the stretchy, rope-like strands found in a burrata.

Again, Superstraccia is nice and spicy, but instead of stringy curds it has soft cubes, much closer to a cottage cheese.

Julienne Bruno says Superstraccia is “not a vegan stracciatella or cottage cheese,” but rather “a plant-based cheese with rich, creamy cottage cheese, equally delicious when served cold or warm.”

Anyway, I could glob the whole tub on a baked potato and be pretty happy.

Overall, Julienne Bruno’s new products — the first since the company’s founding in 2020 — are as delicious as vegan “dairy” products have ever been — though that’s not saying much.

Until now, the words ‘vegan cheese’ reminded me of the dreaded yellow slices that taste like vomit – but this may finally be over.

While I’m not a vegan or vegetarian, I believe that plant-based products should mimic animal versions as closely as possible in order to transition the general public from an omnivorous diet to a vegan diet.

Will devout cheese lovers really want to eat Burrella, Superstraccia or Crematta when the real versions are still on supermarket shelves?

Probably not, especially given that the nutritional value of vegan cheese has been questioned, but they’re sure to go down a treat for former dairy consumers.