Are plus sizes out of fashion? After Victoria’s Secret’s ‘inclusive’ rebrand fails, activist Felicity Hayward accuses labels of treating larger women like ‘gimmicks’ (but one retailer admits ‘size 8 models shift more stock’)

Victoria’s Secret campaigns; the covers of Vogue; catwalks for Balmain: Plus-size models have become a big part of fashion in recent years.

Some, including Ashley Graham and Tess Holliday, have risen to fame, securing podcasts, brand deals and dozens of magazine spreads.

But it appears the tide may be turning for plus-size models, with brands moving away from the use of curvaceous figures in favor of traditionally slim models.

A London-based fashion consultant recently said that a fashion brand she worked with dumped size 16 models because they didn’t generate as much sales as size 8 women.

Anonymously she said to the Telegraph: ‘People may say they want to see more size inclusivity, but fashion is a business. If the plus-size models do not change stock, they are unlikely to be reused.”

Felicity Hayward, a successful plus size model, author and body positivity activist, told FEMAIL: ‘We want to be seen, we want to see clothes on people who look like us, and we want to see brands that embrace the curves too – not one of those gimmick but as a normality.

‘Often we see a brand using one or two plus-size models and assume they are now inclusive, but usually this is far from the truth.’

It comes after Victoria’s Secret claimed its recent marketing campaign promoting rounder figures is responsible for a decline in sales – and that the company is about to ditch its feminist makeover in favor of ‘sexiness’.

The US giant canceled its traditional catwalk shows in 2018, which showcased the brand’s ‘Angels’, and vowed to become ‘the world’s leading advocate for women’.

But while the move to become a more inclusive retailer “generated positive reviews online, it never translated into sales,” according to Business of Fashion reporter Cathleen Chen.

The brand’s revenue is expected to reach $6.2 billion in 2023, down five percent from last year and even lower than 2020, when the brand earned $7.5 billion.

Nevertheless, plus-size models for other companies have proven to drive lingerie sales.

Take Kim Kardashian’s label, SKIMS, for example: it has grown into a $4 billion company in less than four years.

Meanwhile, Rihanna’s brand, Savage x Fenty, is currently valued at $270 million. The singer is known for including models of different sizes and races in her marketing campaigns and runway shows.

At the height of the body inclusivity movement in 2018, the fashion industry promoted the belief that “all bodies are beautiful.”

Plus-size models Ashley Graham, Tess Holliday, Precious Lee and Jill Kortleve led the way – with the support of luxury brands Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel and Fendi.

But during the last catwalk season – spring/summer 2024 – only 0.9 percent of models were plus size (UK 18).

A report from Vogue Business, which analyzed 9,584 looks across 230 presentations in New York, London, Milan and Paris, also found that 3.9 percent of models were medium size (UK 10-14). Therefore, 95.2 percent of women were size 4-8.

By comparison, Vogue Business reported that in fall/winter 2023, only 0.6 percent of models were plus size and 3.8 percent were medium, leaving 95.6 percent between sizes 4 and 8.

“Thankfully the numbers (of plus-size models) were higher in September 2023, possibly due to the amount of pressure and online commentary that it was terrible,” Felicity said.

“The fashion industry listened to the ‘heroin chic’ and Ozempic narrative that was being promoted.”

Speculation is rife about whether dozens of models and celebrities are using Ozempic, a diabetes drug that promotes weight loss by suppressing appetite.

Many fans believed Kim Kardashian used the injectable drug to squeeze into a Marilyn Monroe dress for the 2022 Met Gala, but she denies these rumors.

On TikTok, searches for Ozempic have been viewed more than 537 million times.

Felicity is running her own report called #IncludeTheCurve, which she has been working on since 2019.

She said: ‘While we may see a change in the numbers each season, we must remember that less than 1 per cent of plus-size models on the catwalks is not something to be proud of.’

“A catwalk should represent the world,” she continued.

‘There is so much power in representation and I hope that some of the bigger designers are finally starting to realize that we don’t want the 1990s anymore.’

The April 2023 issue of British Vogue – titled ‘The New Supers’ – featured plus-size models Paloma Elsesser, Precious Lee and Jill Kortleve on the cover and called them ‘a new kind of supermodel’ – so perhaps a revival is on the horizon lurk .

“I always think about the 15-year-old girl sitting in her bedroom in Milwaukee wanting to see someone with breasts or a belly represent her,” Paloma Elsesser said. Fashion.

‘It’s more than just a photo; what we do is create a reference.”

A small number of well-known brands are also present, including ASOS, which sells more than 3,000 plus-size products as part of its Curve range.

And it seems business is booming for the online retailer, who told The Telegraph: ‘Skirts in particular are doing exceptionally well, with sales almost double last autumn/winter.’

H&M is another advocate for body inclusivity. The website states: ‘It has always been our thing to make great fashion available to everyone.

‘With our collections we want to embrace the diversity of being human. We want you to be who you are and feel good about yourself!

‘That’s why we support and work with organizations and initiatives around the world that stand up for the things we believe in. Such as gender equality, women’s rights and body positivity.’