Another reason not to listen to the celebrities! Trendy collagen pills and powders probably will NOT prevent wrinkles, says a dermatologist

It's become a beauty buzz word used in a slew of expensive powders, pills and potions that promise youthful skin, shiny hair and longer nails.

But do collagen supplements, which can cost as little as 27 cents each, really work?

Collagen, a natural protein that is an essential building block for the skin, muscles and bones, is one of the most abundant substances in the body.

But as we age, the levels start to decrease, leading to the formation of wrinkles.

However, celebrities who tout collagen supplements claim they turn back the clock by artificially replacing these lost levels, improving skin elasticity and preventing it from sagging.

But experts are not convinced.

They say packing collagen into your natural diet and avoiding aging factors like smoking, alcohol and exposure to too much sunlight is the only evidence-backed way to achieve a youthful glow.

The fibrous structure of collagen is used in multiple ways in the body and helps maintain bones, muscles, tendons and cartilage.

But the protein's role in keeping skin firm, elastic, and youthful is why a new wave of supplements containing it are hitting the shelves.

Levels naturally peak around the age of 20, at which point the dermis – the second, deeper layer of the skin, made up of blood vessels and fat – produces about one percent less collagen each year.

Smoking, exposure to the sun's ultraviolet light and poor diet can cause collagen levels to drop even faster, thus contributing to the spread of sagging skin and the formation of wrinkles.

So collagen supplements seem like the perfect answer – replenishing natural loss to keep skin looking youthful.

And there is some evidence to support this.

According to a 2021 study, taking a collagen supplement for four weeks was associated with increased skin elasticity and the reduction of wrinkles. study published in the International Journal of Dermatology.

In theory, collagen supplements are broken down into peptides, absorbed through the intestines, enter the bloodstream and eventually reach the skin.

Here they are thought to cause an increase in collagen production, according to London-based dermatologist Dr. Justine Kluk.

However, no study has concretely shown that these peptides actually reach the skin, hair or nails, and instead can simply be digested like any other protein source, researchers say.

And Dr. Kluk warns that many of the studies touting the supposed benefits of collagen research are actually sponsored by the companies themselves.

The 2021 study also notes that a balanced diet and adequate water intake could deliver “clearer and faster results” for a youthful appearance than supplements.

Another small 2017 study found that taking 2.5 mg per day for six months improved nail brittleness and growth.

However, the study did not have a control group to compare these benefits to a cohort that did not use a supplement.

“I do not recommend collagen supplements in my dermatology practice,” says Dr. Kluk.

'The evidence supporting their claims to improve skin aging comes from small, heterogeneous studies, meaning the reported benefits may not be generalizable to the wider population.'

She added: 'The supplements are expensive and must be taken long term to maintain gains.'

Holland & Barrett's Marine Collagen with Vitamin C costs 27 cents per pill, of which three tablets should be taken per day to 'keep your skin healthy'.

The only way is Essex reality star Sam Faiers' daily Revive Collagen sachet costs £2.64 per drink, which is said to 'rebuild and restore your collagen levels' and 'deliver superior results'.

Actress Jennifer Aniston also swears by adding Vital Proteins collagen peptide powder to her morning coffee to stay looking youthful. The brand of flavorless collagen powder claims to be “backed to making all your wellness dreams come true.”

Collagen is even available in chocolate bar form, with Australian brand Krumbled selling its Beauty Bites for £27 a box and claiming they contain 'age-defying ingredients'.

But Dr. Kluk says she avoids such supplements.

Instead, she simply recommends wearing sunscreen and using topical antioxidants like vitamin C or resveratrol, and topical retinoids like retinol, to slow skin aging.

'I would encourage anyone who wants to support healthy skin aging to focus on a healthy lifestyle and diet,' says Dr Kluk.

Dr. Kluk noted that the body absorbs collagen better from food than from supplements.

Dr. Federica Amati, a nutritionist based in London, also says she doesn't believe collagen supplements slow the signs of aging. Instead, she says it's about what we eat.

According to Dr. Amati, wearing the right sunscreen and healthy habits like eating healthy and not smoking or drinking alcohol are the only things proven to work.

“Skin aging, like most aging, is largely caused by oxidative stress,” says Dr. Amati.

She recommends eating plenty of foods containing antioxidants to help reduce this stress and, as a result, aging.

'Foods that help reduce this include colorful plants such as berries, beetroot, dark leafy greens, nuts, green tea and mushrooms,' she says.

'Eating plenty of plants every day provides our cells with the chemicals they need to repair damage and prevent more oxidative stress.'

Vitamin C is also thought to help boost the body's natural collagen production.

According to a French study published in 2020, it can increase the thickness of the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin) and collagen levels.

That's because it helps the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, which can help produce collagen in the body.

Vitamin C is found in a wide variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, such as citrus fruits, green leafy vegetables, berries and peppers. Dr. Amati says adding these foods to your diet can help collagen production.