Why modern mead is the buzzy new drink

When you think of mead, you probably think of syrupy souvenirs in National Trust gift shops, or images of bearded Vikings drinking and drinking.

Now this ancient drink — one of the first ways humans consumed alcohol, with roots dating back to 7,000 B.C. — is making an unlikely comeback as summer’s hottest refresher, thanks to new fermentation techniques, sophisticated new flavors and even an outpouring of support on TikTok. .

Mead is made simply and traditionally by fermenting honey with water. Indeed, we get the word “honeymoon” thanks to the ancient Greek custom of giving it as a wedding gift to promote fertility. But ingredients can also be added, such as herbs, fruit or hops, to enhance the taste.

Usually flat or lightly sparkling, the more traditional styles taste like aromatic, honey-sweetened wine of a similar strength (12-14 percent) and are drunk much like wine.

But there is a new generation of lighter, modern meads that can be slightly sweet or almost completely dry and range from no alcohol to low or medium strength, matching the ABVs of cider or beer.

They are drinks created to appeal to a new, modern audience, as there is now a huge demand for more ‘natural’ drinks, without added sulphur, chemicals or sugars.

Consider the rising popularity of orange wine, which is usually made without any additives. And Pét Nat: a lightly sparkling wine made using age-old methods that predate champagne.

“People are looking for natural and sustainable products with lower intervention,” says Kit Newell of co-maker Hive Mind Mead & Brew Co.

Then there are the bees to consider. Mead is made with honey, and most modern producers do their best to promote the health of the bee population by planting wildflowers or donating to bee conservation charities.

Most are also committed to using sustainable, ethically sourced honey.

“At just 4 percent, our nectars have all the subtlety and refreshment of a good 12 percent sparkling wine,” says co-brewer Tom Gosnell of Gosnells in London.

All this helps explain why the new typical mead drinker is not a Viking warrior, but a discerning consumer who wants to enjoy a refined summer condiment without getting too drunk.

Lyme Bay Winery Traditional Mead (14.5% ABV), £11.49 for 75cl, Waitrose

In the Middle Ages, monks refined fermentation techniques to produce honey wine suitable for European royalty. But the latest revival has been in the US, where more advanced methods mean it is now taken as seriously as wine.

Just as good wine can reveal elements of the soil and ‘terroir’ where it was grown, mead will taste different depending on where the bees harvested and what types of plants they visited.

“They champion the liquid first and foremost, creating something delicious that reflects the terroir of where the bees foraged. It was a revelation to see it,” says Tom Gosnell.

So will mead be reclaimed from the drinking establishments of history? I tried the best modern brews to find out…

AROMATIC AND LOW ALCOHOL

Gosnells Hazy Nectar (4 percent ABV), £1.49, 330ml, Lidl

Take advantage of the fact that you can find this liquid gold with a low alcohol content at Lidl for a limited time.

It makes for a wonderful mead with its dry, honey-like aromas and smooth, slightly sweet taste. It is made with blossom honey.

Also try the spicy Raspberry & Hibiscus Nectar for something wonderfully different. 4/5

SING CITRUS

Wye Valley Traditional Mead (14.5% ABV), £30, 70cl, Hive Mind Mead & Brew Co.

This vibrant, golden nectar won the 2023 Golden Fork Award for its complex, beeswax-scented profile.

Aromatic with a more yeasty note, soft and honeyed with a spicy citrus acidity. 4/5

DARK HONEYCOMB NUTS

Lyme Bay Winery Traditional Mead (14.5% ABV), £11.49 for 75cl, Waitrose

Bees and grapes often go hand in hand, and Lyme Bay ferments, blends and ages the mead on site.

A traditional version, dark amber and savory with notes of caramelized honeycomb and a hint of elderflower. 2/5

TONGUE-TILTING TASTERS

Postcode Mead Tasting Box, £30, Gosnells.co.uk

Biddenden Special Mead, (12% ABV) £11.20 for 75cl Biddenden Vineyards.com

A masterclass in a box, featuring four premium ‘nectars’ (lower alcohol meads), complete with jars of the honey used to make each.

These small bottles show how different the drink can taste depending on where the nectar is harvested. 5/5

PURE CHERRY

Viking Cherry Mead, (6% ABV) £14.99 for 75cl, Honey Mead Company

A little different and incredibly delicious, this lower alcohol drink is packed with warming honey notes, beautifully balanced by natural, tangy cherry flavors.

You can also drink it warm. The classic Honey Mead version is also worth a try. 3/5

SWEET TREAT WITH CHEESE

Biddenden Special Mead, (12% ABV) £11.20 for 75cl Biddenden Vineyards.com

Another specialty of the winery and a sweeter, more aromatic version than some. Biddenden ferments fruit together with honey before subtly sweetening it.

Not as sweet as dessert wines, but enough to be a great accompaniment to hot spices and salty cheese. 3/5