I tried Hilton’s £40 ‘taste of zero waste’ menu – and sampled delicacies such as cod tongues, ox heart and salmon cheeks
In the fight against climate change, it’s fair to say that corporate giants have a greater responsibility when it comes to making big changes.
That’s why multinational hospitality company Hilton has launched ‘taste of zero waste’ menus at four of its top UK hotels until the end of May.
MailOnline went along to try the Hilton London Metropole menu, with delicacies such as cod tongues, ox heart and salmon cheeks.
The £40 menu showcases ‘innovative techniques’ to tackle food waste and under-utilised cuts of meat that would normally be thrown away.
Avoiding food waste is crucial in the fight against climate change because when food waste rots, it releases methane, a potent greenhouse gas.
The £40 menu showcases ‘innovative techniques’ to tackle food waste and under-utilised cuts of meat that would normally be thrown away. In the photo: ox heart (left) and salmon cheeks (right)
Zero waste menus are launching at four Hilton hotels: Hilton London Metropole (pictured), London Hilton on Park Lane, Hilton Manchester Deansgate and DoubleTree by Hilton Brighton Metropole
I thought Hilton might have taken note of Silo, the trendy eatery that bills itself as the world’s first zero waste restaurant.
But Paul Bates, head chef at Hilton London Metropole, told me that Hilton’s ‘taste of waste’ menu was not at all inspired by the east London establishment.
Instead, trying to create as little waste as possible in a professional kitchen is something chefs in the industry did more than two decades ago.
As the link between food waste and climate change becomes clearer, Hilton wants other kitchens to take note.
“If I saw young chefs throwing food in the bin I’d say, ‘What do you think you’re doing?'” Chef Bates told MailOnline.
“We learned how to use things – use the bones to make stock.”
With the new menu, the chef uses unusual cuts of meat that are often overlooked and therefore often cheaper, while using leftovers left over during food preparation.
To start, there are three crispy cod tongues, deep-fried in breadcrumbs and served with gribiche sauce, made from hard-boiled eggs from the morning breakfast bar.
I was expecting something soft and smooth, but the texture of the tongues is firmer than this, almost like squid.
However, the taste is very familiar – exactly like every other piece of cod I’ve tasted. What a revelation!
I would definitely eat a box of six cod tongues if they were served at my local chippy, but unfortunately the small pieces are often thrown away when the fish is filleted.
That seems crazy to me, especially considering cod is one of the most over-farmed fish in British waters and populations are ‘critically low’, according to a report last year.
Pictured: Cod tongues with gribiche (a French egg sauce) made from hard-boiled eggs left over from the morning’s breakfast bar
In the photo a skewer of chicken hearts on top of minced chicken on toast, including potato peels in the bread mix
Pictured: Paul Bates, chef at Hilton London Metropole, who wants other chefs to think about what they throw in the bin
The salmon cheeks – served with outer lettuce leaves and salmon head sauce – are less surprising because they have the same texture as any other part of the salmon.
Next I try a skewer of chicken hearts served with minced chicken on toast, including potato skins in the bread mix.
I’ve tasted chicken hearts before in Brazilian barbecue restaurants – they’re squid-like and salty and much tastier than they sound.
While Hilton’s hearts don’t quite compare, the mince on toast – with small chunks of chicken carefully scraped from the bones – is smart, like a light bolognaise.
The ox heart, meanwhile, has been cut into pieces that look ‘just like steak’ and then finely chopped into leaf-shaped portions, placed on top of the potato skin risotto.
While I love offal, it has a slight chewiness and “squeaky sound” that makes me think other Hilton guests wish they had ordered the steak.
For me, the highlight is without a doubt the vegetable korma, served with ‘sticky rice cakes’: a compact disk of rice, fried until crispy on one side.
The highlight of the evening was the vegetable korma, with root and spring vegetables, glutinous rice biscuit, tomato and coriander stalks
I usually make fun of anyone who orders a korma, but this one – made with small herb and vegetable garnishes – has a real spicy kick.
Overall, I’m surprised by the size of the dishes – much smaller than the promo photos suggested when Hilton announced the initiative.
But this is a defense against what Bates calls “plate waste”: food that returns to diners’ plates and can no longer be served or reused.
The smaller the portions, the less likely there will be leftover food on plates when they return to the kitchen – and the more likely guests are to try the menu.
“With this particular menu it’s done tapas style,” Bates told MailOnline.
‘People risk a starter, but not a main course.’
To finish off, there is a delicious bread and butter pudding made with jam and leftover pastries, again from the morning breakfast.
During a global battle to reduce meat consumption, it says a lot that the two tastiest dishes – the korma and the pudding – are both vegetarian.
Bread and butter pudding made with leftover jam and pastries, served with blueberries and fudge, caramel sauce
Hilton London Metropole (pictured) is one of four Hiltons trialling this zero waste initiative, although its £40 set menu is unique
Hilton’s Zero Waste menu is certainly an interesting change from standard restaurant dishes, such as burgers, steak and pasta.
The thing is, I’m probably a lot more adventurous than the average British guy when it comes to trying unusual ingredients.
Sadly, the majority may be so deep in their comfort zone that the thought of eating tongues and hearts makes them squirm – a great shame.
Although Hilton’s zero waste preference only lasts until the end of May, Chef Bates said some dishes could make a reappearance and that Hilton will adapt the zero waste ethos more in the future.
Perhaps its real legacy will be that chefs and customers alike start a conversation about our costly habit of food waste as we move into an uncertain future.
Zero waste menus are available at four Hilton hotels – London Hilton on Park Lane, Hilton Manchester Deansgate, Hilton London Metropole and DoubleTree by Hilton Brighton Metropole – until the end of May.
While Hilton London Metropole has a set menu from £40, the other three offer mains from £14 and starters and desserts from £8.